July 15, 2022
July 15: Neiva to Rioloro
A tremendous rainstorm woke both Girish and I up at 4:45, pounding away on the corrugated roof of our hotel. We therefore decided to cancel our 5:30 wake-up alarm and instead sleep in, hoping that the rain would subside in the meantime. Luckily it did, and we were on the road by 8:30 after a light breakfast at the hotel.
The ride out of Neiva was straightforward, albeit damp with all of the standing water on the roadways. Our route today would take us due south on the 45, so navigation was simple. It was one of those days where you simply pedal away, check your mirror, listen to music, and watch the miles pass you by.
The first 50km were rather monotonous, with a tree canopy draping the roadway and moderate traffic buzzing our ears. I didn't bother to take any photos for that reason. We stopped for a morning coffee at a roadside vendor, a quant abuelita who insisted on grilling our math skills when paying our bill. In many ways she reminded me of my own grandma back stateside.
We continued on for another 30km or so before again stopping for a snack. While sitting on my bike with one foot on the sidewalk, another abuelita eagerly came out of her home and began chatting with me. And when I say with me, what I really mean is at me. In 15 minutes or so of non-stop talking about literally everything (I lost track of what she mentioned), I got in maybe 2 sentences. Out of the corner of my eye I could see Girish smirking. I eventually slipped away after asking for a suggestion on where to eat and kindly thanking her. For an introvert like myself it was the most exhausting part of my day.
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The scenery because dry again as we neared the Río Magdalena before taking a drastic swing upwards into the hills. Neither Girish nor I were expecting this climb, but we powered through. The view at the summit was certainly worth it, but I would be lying if I said I wasn't feeling hangry and ready for a break from pedaling.
We pushed on to Gigante, where we stopped for a filling lunch and figuring out our next steps. Garzón, our intended destination, was 30km away which would put us at 116km for the day. With food in our bellies we figured we could make it before sundown, which would set us up well for a push to Picalito or, if we were feeling really good, San Agustín.
We powered out of town feeling much renewed. The road in many ways reminded me of that leading to Lucky Peak Reservoir in Idaho, rising and diving amongst small valleys surrounding the Río Magdalena. Unfortunately, Girish got the first flat tire of the trip so our progress towards Garzón was hindered. Luckily though, we were within a kilometer of Rioloro which we knew had a small hotel. We made it with sunlight to spare, and Girish began patching his enormous fatbike tube. I haven't had a flat in almost two years of using a tubeless setup, so knock on wood it stays that way for the next couple of hundred miles!
Today's riding felt a bit like a chore, with the simple aim of getting from one place to another with not much in-between. Still though, while riding I still have to pinch myself that I am doing something big that many people can't even dream of doing. Privilege is something that keeps coming up on this trip, and I am constantly reminded of the privilege I have not only as a bikepacker and visitor, but as someone with a supportive family, stable job, and ample vacation time.
Today's ride: 99 km (61 miles)
Total: 1,623 km (1,008 miles)
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