July 26, 2016
DAY 58: Berea to Booneville: "And so I descend, into uncertain lands"
DAILY STATS
Mileage: 49.32
Average Speed: 12.6 mph
Maximum Speed: 34.8 mph
Before you continue, I highly recommend you play this music while reading today's blog (it starts at 0:20).
https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=-emvmP4_BSk
Let me explain why. Yesterday in Berea I had the opportunity to explore artisan shops, chat with locals, and learn more about Appalachian culture. It's absolutely fascinating to me that such a distinct regional identity--complete with its own unique language, art, music, and beliefs--still exists in the rural mountain communities east of here. Today I would be entering these communities. So, in preparation, Ispent last night downloading regional music of all types. This piece fit the scenery of today's ride perfectly.
However, let me be clear that I was also quite nervous to be entering this region. I had been warned by passing cyclists of the crippling poverty, aggressive drivers, and endless stream of dogs that I would encounter. My day in Berea helped open my mind, and I was thus eager to experience the true reality of rural Kentucky and Virginia Appalachia. Screw expectations.
I was pleased to look out my window this morning to see partly cloudy skies, and NOT the forecasted rain and thunderstorms. It was slated to be more humid than previous days, but also significantly cooler. After a lite breakfast at Eric's place, I was on the road.
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I immediately descended and ascended through beautiful valleys bordered by hillsides covered in deciduous hardwood forests. It was a nice change from the tobacco and corn fields.
The dogs, though, frequently threw a wrench in my happy, mindless observations. Apparently I look absolutely delectable, because they were after me with vigor. I sprayed two of the more persistent ones, but not before one of them managed to bite my rear pannier. So, it turns out, I should expect more dogs, like the cyclists warned. Sigh.
But, besides these brief, tense encounters every couple of miles, today was an absolutely joyous day to be on a bike. I pedaled away to a flurry of banjos, fiddles, and dulcimers, truly enjoying the shady, two lane roads through the mountains.
Before I knew it, I had reached Booneville, and set up behind the Presbyterian Church. The church provides a large pavillion, shower, and bathroom to passing cyclists. It was a lovely spot to pass the afternoon. I began reading "A Walk in the Woods" to the chirps of crickets, made dinner, and called friends and family.
Today's ride: 49 miles (79 km)
Total: 3,803 miles (6,120 km)
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