To Tréguier

September 16, 2022

The weather looks gorgeous today - sunny, a high in the low 60’s - as it does for most of the coming week. We have a short ride ahead to Tréguier, our destination for the night, and we can’t check in there until five so we decide there’s time and the legs to backtrack a few miles to Ploumanac’h, the epicenter of the pink granite coast we biked too quickly through last night.

I have misgivings on this plan though when we’re climbing the 10-12% grade between Perros and here and Rachael drops well behind and eventually starts walking. Her back is bothering her, as is the surprisingly cold headwind we’re biking into. I’m starting to envision looking at the map to see where the trains run in this part of the world in case biking is too difficult for her today - but she’s in good spirits when we reach our destination near the lighthouse and is glad we came.

And so am I. It’s a justifiably popular place - a large tour group is making its way along the rocks on the narrow path to the lighthouse while I’m walking back from it - but this early in the day at least it’s not so crowded as to be a hindrance. We take turns watching the bikes while the other explores, and then after perhaps a half hour or 45 minutes we’re on the bikes again heading back to Perros and then beyond.

On the pink granite coast. I wonder what the story is with these rails that run to the sea here.

Here and elsewhere along the coast here we find enormous house-sized granite boulders worn smooth in intriguing, sometimes grotesque shapes.

An impressive rock garden to have in your back yard.

The Men Ruz lighthouse marks the entrance to the channel leading to Ploumanac’h. The current lighthouse, built of pink granite, was constructed in 1946 to replace the one destroyed by bombing during the war.

Rachael is faring much better once we’re back on the bikes and heading east. Her back has loosened up, and it helps that the wind is with us now and not affecting her breathing by blowing into her face. We backtrack to Perros and then generally follow the coastline on small roads until we come to Nantouar, where we stop for lunch. It’s in the sixties and sunny but with the stiff wind it’s surprisingly chilly once we stop biking so we find the most sheltered spot we can, leaning against a concrete seawall.

As we sit there enjoying our lunch and the sea views we find that our bread has turned moldy. There are no birds in the immediate vicinity but I see a lone gull coasting my direction about a hundred yards off. As an experiment I fling a bit of bread into the air, and within a minute we have four gulls keeping us company. For the record, herring gulls (if this is what they are) sniff their beaks at moldy bread but are definitely enthusiastic about cheese rind.

Chapelle Notre-Dame-de-la-Clarté de Perros-Guirec, an attractive Catholic Church at the high point between Perros and Ploumanac’h. We might have stopped in to look around except there appeared to be a funeral service in progress.

Further east we continue following the line of the sea as the coast becomes steadily more spectacular. This stretch is the northernmost point of Brittany and maybe the most famously scenic part of the peninsula, particularly the stretch east from Port-Blanc to the inlet to the Jaudy River. The route I’ve mapped for us today is also quite challenging riding, a profile Britain might be proud of as we cross over one spike after another most of the rest of the way to Tréguier.

Between the challenging ride and the frequent imperative stops to gaze in wonder at the rocky coastline our progress is very slow. Even though we left Perros before eleven and only bike 34 miles today, we won’t arrive at our lodging until exactly five. Along the way we’ll see many sights I recognize from Jacquie Gaudet’s ride through here three years ago.

An interesting stretch of ‘road’, crossing the beach at the head of a small inlet.

We’re lucky in our timing today. I’m pretty sure this would be impassable without a boat at high tide.

This is such a spectacular coastline. Parts of it remind me of Corsica, which has some of the best coastal riding we’ve experienced anywhere.

A famously scenic spot, one of the most photographed in Brittany: the house between two rocks.

The house between two rocks is a private residence. Imagine living in such a place!

The coastline north of Plougrescant. We’d love to come back some year and stay nearby so we could walk the coastline here.

At the entrance to the Jaudy estuary. From here we turn south and follow the estuary to Tréguier, merrily rolling up and down the whole way.

Video sound track: Desejo, by Gianni Savelli Media Res

Entering Tréguier, we cross the passerelle Saint-Francois over the Guindey River - a sight I’ve been anticipating from reading Jacquie’s post from her ride here.

Tréguier looks like an amazing spot, filled with half-timbered houses; and the place we’re staying in is amazing too. We’re staying here two nights and are sorry it’s not longer. We’ll show you why we’ve quickly fallen in love with this place tomorrow, but for now here’s a picture of our room before we trash it and toss all the surplus pillows in the corner.

Our room in B&B du Cloitre, our home for the next two nights in Tréguier.

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Ride stats today: 34 miles, 2,900’; for the tour: 162 miles, 12,000’

Today's ride: 34 miles (55 km)
Total: 162 miles (261 km)

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Kathleen ClassenI admire you guys. You get going every day. We are relaxing in our VERY touristy resort and feeling remarkably lazy. Perhaps the temperature has something to do with it…it is hot! I have given my bike the side eye, but it may be hiking today, not biking. We have booked a second night and Keith wants to book a third. No decision yet.
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2 years ago

Suzanne GibsonIt was great following you in Britain, but I love your biking here even more. We've been to that part of Brittany but it is now again on our list for next year.
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2 years ago

Scott AndersonTo Suzanne GibsonSuch a rush to judgement, Suzanne! We’ve only been here five days so far. Have you forgotten how beautiful the moors and dales are already? And what about the ruined abbeys?

More importantly though, how are you doing?
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2 years ago

Suzanne GibsonTo Scott AndersonOut of the hospital and recovering well, thank you. Just read what I had is sometimes referred to as 'little old ladies hernia'. Had to laugh. You can Google it under that.
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2 years ago

Rachael AndersonTo Suzanne GibsonYou are not a little old lady! You were just lifting a too heavy bike. Be careful!
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2 years ago

Rachael AndersonTo Kathleen ClassenWe’ve been fortunate to not have hot weather, I wouldn’t want to cycle in it either! I hope it cools down soon!
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2 years ago

Kathleen ClassenI am not sure what to hope for! I just had a dip in the pool and it was like lovely. We had a great hike today too. This is how normal people travel 😂.
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2 years ago

Eva WaltersLooks like a spectacular ride today. Maybe we'll go to Brittany on our next tour. Al and I look forward every day to reading your posts and have enjoyed your impressions of the contrasts between riding in England and France.
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2 years ago

Scott AndersonTo Eva WaltersIt’s nice to hear from you, Eva. I’ve been thinking of you and Al lately - we’re tentatively planning to take the Raven for a road trip up into Canada next summer and would hope to find you at home when we come through your area. I hope you do make it to Brittany - have you been here before? - so far at least it looks like an exceptional part of the country. I’m sorry now that it’s taken us so long to get here.
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2 years ago

Eva Walters No, we haven't been to Brittany. We've only cycled in France in the spring and late fall, so traveled further south for warmer temps. It would be great to get together next summer. Keep us posted on your road trip plans.
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2 years ago