Not every day can be like yesterday’s magical ride up to the Aubrac Plateau, but today was special enough. And challenging enough too, with maybe the most climbing on a traveling day we’ve faced since leaving northern England. It began with a few more miles up the Lot, with a short but steep climb not far after leaving town as we lifted ourselves over another bend in the river. Not long especially, climbing about 800’ in four miles before dropping to the river again; but it started out with a discouraging 10% jolt that had us groaning and thinking the whole ride might be like this before it finally tapered off into a relaxed grade.
Leaving Saint-Geniez, taking the shortcut past the Marie and cloister.
Enough of that. We’re back down at river level, crossing the Lot yet again. How many times does this make it? I’m pretty sure we’re up to at least twenty crossings since we first reached the river at Bouzies eight days ago.
At Banassac we cross the Lot for the final time, stop at a picnic bench for lunch, and then start climbing. We’ve been anticipating this ascent ever since we started biking up the Lot, crossing the high divide between it and the Tarn; but in fact it’s no big deal at all as it takes eight miles to climb 1,200 feet, never steeply enough to bring much grief to the team. That first short climb at the start of the day was much worse.
France has so many spectacular gorges. They’re all remarkable when I think back on the many we’ve biked through by now but the Tarn is really in a class of its own, up at the top with the incredible Grand Canyon of the Verdun. On one level I remember how astonishing it seemed when we biked through it 25 years ago, but then again I really don’t. It takes our breath away when we round the bend and stare down into this immense chasm, really to vast and sprawling to fully take in. We both stop, stunned for awhile, and then begin the descent - a comfortable 1,300’ in the next eight miles, but one that goes slowly because around every other bend I have to stop and look again.
Descending to the Tarn. The road angling up the opposite slope climbs up to the Causse Méjean. If I’m lucky with weather I’ll bike up there tomorrow for a look from the other side.
Keith AdamsMy money's on the turnout at the left side of the image, right where the road disappears before coming back into view in center frame. Reply to this comment 2 years ago
Video sound track: Flim Flam, by the Bud Shank Quartet
We told Susan we’d arrive at the hotel some time between 3 and 4 - oh, did I forget to mention we’re meeting up with Susan again, arriving on her way up the Tarn from Albi? - but it’s nearly 4 when we finally pull in because it takes nearly a half hour to coast the last five miles downhill. When I finally arrive Rachael’s already been here for a few minutes, and Susan’s been in long enough that she’s already checked into her room and is waving out her window as I round the bend.
Like ourselves, Susan is somewhat stunned, still aglow from her own magical ride up the river. I chide her for letting me down - at every vantage point on the descent where I could see the road I’ve been carefully casing it out hoping I could get a photo of her far below, but she apparently came through too early for that.
There’s more to say about our first evening here and our shared dinner at a modest pizzeria, apparently the only restaurant open this evening - but if I described it, what would be left for Susan to say? The chivalrous thing is to stop here, so I will.
Scott AndersonTo ann and steve maher-wearyI wish you were too, although it would be pretty great being there in Sarlat too. Reply to this comment 2 years ago
