We were the only diners at breakfast this morning, which our hosts were kind enough to offer at 7:30 so we could get an earlier start. We stalled around until 10 before leaving anyway, perhaps reluctant to venture out in the wind. When we finally did, departure was awkward as our host stayed out on the porch chatting with us longer than necessary as we loaded the bikes and prepared to bike off. Finally she gently suggested we might want to be paying for the stay!
Good point. Somehow we’d forgotten this nicety, and also forgotten to see if they accepted credit cards. Sadly, they don’t; so more awkward moments ensue while we pool our resources to see if we have the needed 210€ with us or if I’ll need to bike down to the village and raid an ATM before leaving town. The suspense builds as I unfold the few bills I have in my wallet and start audibly counting them out. Fifty, one hundred, 150, two hundred. Only one bill remained. A tenner. Exactly enough!
So we’re finally rolling, enjoying a fast coast down to the village where we stop at the ATM to refuel before proceeding south. A day that began slowly continues slowly as we bike into a robust headwind. For the first eleven miles we’re on the D920, the main route that threads through a narrow, deep gorge with the river before reaching Estaing. We alternatingly enjoy respites from the wind when we’re sheltered by an upcoming bend in the road and getting slammed and brought to a near stop when we round it and catch the full brunt again. It’s a good thing that the road is so quiet today or we’d be worried about getting blown into traffic.
Following the Lot upriver. It makes a dynamic ride, but on the whole it’s probably a good thing that it’s so windy, because it’s so windy.
Finally we come to Estaing and cross the bridge there to the much quieter road that follows the opposite bank of the river now that the gorge has widened out enough to have room for it. I recognize Estaing the instant it comes into view of course, because it’s an unforgettable sight. Staying here on our ride back to Bordeaux was a real highlight of that tour, and it was a temptation to stay here again this time when planning our route.
The bridge across the Lot, an important crossing on the route to Compostela. The figure on the right is Francois d’Estaing, the bishop of Rodez, welcoming pilgrims on their long walk. When we stayed here before our room was immediately behind where I’m standing here. This was the inspiring view from our window.
The ride on the other side of the river is much more pleasant, totally quiet except for the passage of an occasional pilgrim. Signs along the way label it as a veloroute and a stretch of the Way. We enjoy the solitude over the coming miles, as well as the fact that this side of the river seems more sheltered from the wind.
Before long we come to Espalion, the largest town along this stretch of the river. I’m surprised at first when we bike in because I thought we’d been here before but nothing looks familiar today. Rereading our old journal though I see that we turned off to the west before this on our way to Marcellac and Cordes-Sur-Ciel.
Espailion is an attractive spot that would also work well as an overnight stay. Today though we’re happy to find a bench in the sun to enjoy our lunch before continuing on.
We’ve been passing these signs off and on for days, but haven’t seen one since Entreyguez. I should look up the route - maybe there’s a quieter alternative to the river road we could have been following.
Lunch stop, Espalion. The Michou tower inspires confidence as a backstop for the bikes. It’s been standing here since the 13th century so it’s not likely to topple now.
The ride includes a larger climb than we’ve seen for awhile on a moving day - a gradual 1,100 feet in six miles as our road rises above a large shoulder of the river. Quite steady and not bad, except for one small detail - halfway up it starts raining. If there were any reasonably sheltered spot on this narrow road to stop we’d probably have taken it, but there’s not; and it’s modest enough that we just ride through and are happy when it stops about two miles later when we reach the summit.
A beautiful, quiet cycling road - or a walking one, if you’re on route to Spain.
Looking back from the summit. The rain has just passed, and looking back to the north there’s just the hint of a rainbow that quickly disappears as I stop to watch.
It’s a fast but happily dry ride the rest of the way to our stay for the night, Saint-Geniez-d’Olt. ‘Olt’, btw, is the Occitan name for the Lot River. We’re in the Occitanie now and are starting to see bilingual signs again.
Saint-Geniez looks gray and just a bit dreary when we bike down a back alley on the way to our hotel; but we’ll soon discover it’s a very attractive village, full of character. We’ll be here two nights so we’ll see more of the town later.
On the bridge, beside of a statue of two children and a marmot. There’s clearly a story here, and we’ll see references to marmots everywhere - there are even stuffed marmots for sale in the lobby of tonight’s restaurant. I’ll research this and report back.
