In Sarlat: a ride and a walk

October 6, 2022

You’d think that with all the time in the world we’d do a better job of keeping up on the journal but for reasons I can’t go into just yet I’m getting seriously behind. Something’s got to give, and it’s going to be this entry. Pretty much just a skeleton entry to remind us of how we spent the day, and maybe to entice you to make your way to Le Roque-Gageac and buy your admission to the fort clinging to the cliffs so you can enjoy the wonderful views from up there. After looking at her slide show I wished I’d have taken that 13 mile walk with her myself.

I didn’t do that, because 13 miles is getting outside of my walking comfort zone - especially with four of them on the shoulder of a minor highway that didn’t sound that appealing to me. Instead I mapped out an out and back ride for myself north to Condat-sur-Vézère, a minor town on the Vézère perhaps 30 miles upriver from Les Eyzies.

Condat once I arrived there was no big draw; but the ride getting there and back was very pleasant, a relaxed roller through sparsely populated farmland. After climbing up from Sarlat it was a relaxed 13 mile descent to Vézère, where I sat in front of the church contemplating the 13 mile climb back out and a nearly empty water bottle and wondering why I hadn’t followed Rachael’s advice and packed the full water bottle we had in the in the room or brought a lunch.

Fortunately I was saved from my foolishness by a convenience store in Coly, a few miles on my way back to town. A coke and small bag of mixed nuts were sufficient and got me home. A very nice ride all in all, but nothing dramatic. If you want drama, go to Le Roque-Gageac.

Don’t you get tired of seeing all those cheesy poses at the top of some impressive mountain pass? If so, here’s one for you - at the high point of the ride, on a plateau after a modest 600’ climb.

I don’t know what this is. Just some chateau on a ridge, one of thousands in the region.

Someone still lives here from the looks of it.

Some unnamed settlement along the way, typical of the region. They all seem to have this same, monotonous look - golden sandstone capped by a red tile roof.

Now this is definitely interesting though: Saint Genies, a quiet and beautiful village just off the route. It was worth the whole ride just for the time I spent wandering its lanes looking up at its church and castle. It’s not Le Roque-Gageac, but on the plus side you’ll have the place to yourself.

Much of the descent to the river looked like this, following the Chironde as it descends at a lazy 1-2% grade, its banks lined with a ribbon of corn. Very pleasant.

If Saint Genies was too busy for you there’s this place you could slow down for, as I did. It’s signposted as Le Tour at the entrance, but I can’t find it on the map.

I feel much better seeing scenes like this, knowing now that sunflowers are left to dry like this before harvesting.

In Condat-sur-Vézère. The dry stream bed is the Coly, which if there were water running in it would empty into the Vézère just on the other side of the bridge.

On the way back. The ride starts following the Coly through this small gorge before branching off to its tributary the Chironde.

A structure that looked more interesting on the way back upstream than before. Maybe the light was just better.

Another spot I decided to stop for this time through.

So after I made it back Rachael taunted me with her photos from Le Roque-Gageac and by then it was time to rush off to dinner. It was great sitting outside beneath the cathedral on a warm, windless autumn evening, watching the golden glow of its monuments fade as the sun went down. Pretty embarrassing to have spent three nights in this place and not have really spent any time looking at it other than while walking to and from dinner, but there you are.

You’ll recognize this building from its illuminated look after dark.

Our restaurant. As usual, we’re the first to arrive.

The cathedral, and our view from our dinner table.

Ho hum, another Bergerac. Time to move on to a new region.

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Ride stats today: 43 miles, 2,300’; for the tour: 612 miles, 41,000’

Today's ride: 43 miles (69 km)
Total: 613 miles (987 km)

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Suzanne GibsonGreat slideshow, Rachael. A wonderful way to present the pictures from your walks!
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2 years ago

Bob DistelbergYou're right, that slide show was pretty spectacular, as was the musical choice accompanying it.
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2 years ago

Kathleen ClassenA warm, windless autumn evening! We have the warm, and the autumn I suppose, although it still feels like summer, but we sure don’t have the windless. I am feeling envious!
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2 years ago