Final thoughts
I rode 3 different Radwegs this trip. Ok, technically 4 if you count the bit along the Donau Radweg from Enns to Linz. I'll give a brief summary of each below. This is based entirely on my personal experience in which weather and my type of bike played a roll. Your experiences would likely be much different.
Tauern Radweg
This is my second time riding the Tauern Radweg. Last time I bypassed the big long hill immediately south of Schwarzach. I also bypassed the section on the Bundesstraße between werfen and Golling. Even so, it was a wonderful ride and I wanted to recapture that magic and ride the parts I had previously skipped.
The hike up the Krimml falls with my friend and former student Colin was marvelous. The angle of the sun earlier in the day makes photography more challenging, but a picture will never fully capture the experience you get standing next to that powerful a waterfall anyway. It's still a tough hike, especially to the very highest falls, but it's absolutely worth it for the views and experience.
The hike on the mountain overlooking the Zellersee was also a great experience. I really like how accessible Europeans make their mountains. There are a great mix of mountains reachable by cable car along with mountains which have been left completely natural. The network of hiking trails actually exceeds the network of cycling trails. The bathing lake near the top of the Cityxpress cable car was pretty neat and worth bringing a bathing suit for.
The Kitzlochklamm was not so much worth the stop. The Liechtensteinklamm is definitely the more scenic of the 2 main klamms along the trail. It appears the Liechtensteinklamm may actually have been closed this summer.
The big hill while tough, turned out to be achievable and traffic along the Bundesstraße was not a problem, aside from the one bus. All in all, the ride from Krimml to Salzburg remains my favorite ride in Europe and one I would definitely ride again. Signage is excellent, there are lots of things to do besides riding, accomodations are generally easy to find and not overly expensive. It's just overall a great experience.
Enns Radweg
My opinion of this ride is no doubt colored by the atrocious weather. It's not often that I bail on a trail. In fact, the last trail I bailed on was the Bodensee-königsee Radweg which was also due to weather. Gesäuse Nationalpark is definitely beautiful, even in the rain. The tourist parts of the trail are full of tourists, though that was partially due to the big concert in Schladming. The rest of the trail is as remote as others have said it is. Accomodations and services are scarce beyond Admont and you really have to plan carefully. Traffic, at least when I was there, was minimal. I stuck with the Bundesstraße instead of taking the Erbsattel road option and it turned out a decent portion of the Bundesstraße had separate path. Steyr is interesting, Enns not so much. Signage is pretty good, but as a destination, the Enns Radweg gets a big thumbs down from me. There are better mountain area routes.
Donau Radweg
This was the Radweg that brought long distance touring in Europe to my attention. This is also the only time I've ridden any of it. Sure it's flat, but at least the stretch I rode is as boring, if not more so, than the Main Radweg. Linz was more interesting than I anticipated. Other than that, I don't see what the big draw is.
Salzkammergut Radweg
Still as beautiful as I remember it being. The tourists know it too, though. This was where I really ran into accomdation troubles. While I loved the scenery and biking, the frustration with finding places to stay and having to skip riding the circular route back to Hallstatt, Bad Aussee, and the Grundlsee was disappointing. Weather cut short my time in the Salzkammergut and sent me scurrying to Salzburg to hide out in a hotel room. All told, half the days this trip have had cold rainy weather which I think is rather unusual for this time of year. The cable car ride up the Feuerkogel is very much worth it. A person could also easily spend a day or more at each lake just lounging. Granted you have to fight the hoards of other tourists doing the same thing. I think it would actually be easier to camp in the Salzkammergut than to try and find rooms.
And that was it. Salzburg, as always, is beautiful and packed with tourists. It is the only place where a restaurant put ice in my pop. It is so touristed now that it's not really a true experience of Austria which is unappelaing to me. However, they did have bookstores and that's mainly what I stopped there for.
Having had a week now to reflect back on the trip, I am quite certain that I will take next year off from touring in Europe. I may do some weekend tours on some local rail trails in Minnesota instead. The uncertainty of weather combined with the incredible hassle of traveling that far and lugging a bike along take a lot away from the experience. I was intending to ride in the Dolomites next. Having looked at what would be involved to get to the start point of the trail and back from the other end, I'm even less interested in making that kind of a trek when I can drive an hour or 2 and find a nice scenic flat trail not far from my own home. I'll reevaluate my intentions in the next few months, but for now that's where I'm at.
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