An all-too promising start

August 28, 2020

Munich — Bayrischzell

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I had located my hotel near the station without trouble, and was let in by the very helpful and relaxed night receptionist, even though it was nearing 1am.

Sleeping well, I retrieved the Shift and made for the station for a quick breakfast. Then it was out into the busy but impeccably courteous Munich traffic just after 10am. Things started quite slowly, with a fair bit of wandering in the wrong direction or confusion at bike lane junctions, and in one case me accidentally going through a red light - oops - to the good-natured indifference of the pedestrians crossing.

Then it was down to the Isar cycleway, making for a much easier way to cut out the city to the south. I followed the river, past Teutonically unclad sunbathers basking in the already warm sun. My plan was to climb away from the the river once out the city towards an extensive forest park, before picking up the gently climbing route of the local railway that headed to my first destination, the small lake of Tegernsee nestled by the Austrian border. I would then cut across to a sister lake nearby, the Schliersee, before proceeding up the valley (or so I hoped) to Bayrischzell, the last town of any size in this corner of Germany, where I had a guesthouse booking. This was something of a "scenic route", but there were no enormous climbs and I liked the idea of taking in a couple of lakes while getting my legs used to the new topography.

A steep climb out of the river value, and following an impressive network of cyclelanes, and I was into the dead-straight avenue through a large Grunwald forested area that cuts a surprisingly wild wedge into the south of the city. Lots of other riders, many of them loaded, as well as skaters and scooters were about, but no other touring cyclists I could see.

Towards the end this avenue was blocked and diversion signed. I probably should have just pushed on, but feeling in rule-abiding mode I followed it rather deep into the forest, whereafter the diversion signs (naturally) dried up. I eventually emerged right next to the railway, which I could follow on a very narrow track to emerge near Oberhaching, in inefficient but pleasant detour.

A biking-priority street runs all through the suburbs

Straight route cutting through the extensive Grünwald forest park

Rather elaborate off-road diversion through the woods

Emerging here, I had a wonderfully strange conversation with a lady who wondered if I'd seen her daughter — when she realised I didn't really understand the German, she was at great pains to let me know I was fine to cycle on these forest trails!

Soon I was out the village and following the cycleway, again alongside the railway. Now it was much quieter - deserted in fact, this apparently being beyond the range of the fitness circuits of the city dwellers.

The weather was glorious. Near Sauerlach I stopped at a sports ground to refill my bottles from a long hose, which I needed to run for some minutes before the bath-warm water was completely flushed from its coils. The village was silent and sleepy in the midday heat, a great contrast from Munich after only 25km.

I wanted to get to the lake before lunch so I pressed on, off road in sections but enjoying the change in surface, even if there was some back-tracking required when I slightly too enthusiastically started hacking to the south near Otterfing. In common with most of Germany it seems that, unless explicitly indicated, farm and forestry roads are all fair-game for cycling down, and indeed I saw a number of locals riding between the villages at this point.

I passed quickly through Holzkirchen without going directly through the centre, but still spotted a strikingly imaginative modern church building. Continuing on minor roads, after Holzkirchen the gentle incline became less forgiving, and I had some proper rollers that started to take it out of me in a way that it took some time for me to realise was partly due to thirst and hunger. A road-side stop to eat a well-travelled sandwich (bought in Rotterdam seemingly a lifetime ago) and have a good drink restored me considerably. I also realised the repetitive squeak coming from my drive chain was not my derailer about to fall apart, but was in fact the action of trousers upon leather saddle as I pedalled.

The hills around started to become more dramatic. In the distance I could see the rather forbidding wall of mountains at the Austrian border, and as I approached the lake I was funelled into a picturesque and narrow valley of Louisenthal, which closed - a massive and pristinely neat paper mill. The surprise presence of busy industry in the most unlikely places is something I've noticed in Germany before (e.g. a high-tech wheel hub factory in the middle of the Black Forest). It always looks so clean and modern that it even fits into the landscape. Climbing past the mill, I was passed by signs advertising paper product souvenirs, before descending into Gmund.

Quiet back roads followed the branch line, while the mountains at the Austrian border started to become visible in the distance

A close-to-home name of this village. There's also a "Bad Aying", which was even more disconcerting.

The onion-domed churches immediately give a central European atmosphere

I love the crazy variety of these squashes

Big maypoles seem to be a feature of Bavarian villages

Curious church architecture in Holzkirchen

A gin distillery! I'm glad to see the G&T craze has reached Bavaria...

A surprise (and immaculate) giant paper mill off this tiny road in a picturesque valley

Gmund is on the north tip of the Tegernsee, and was busy with tourists - it took a good five minutes to cross the perimeter road. I immediately headed down to the shore, where I was rewarded with a bench with an excellent view of the lake. A meal of my (other) sandwich and plenty of chocolate, and I was ready to go again.

Looking over Tegernsee from my lunch spot. It had just started to cloud in.

The statue is called "one Mann and his dog" (sorry)

From here I had my first "alpine" challenge: traversing the high ground between the two Sees to the Schliersee. While only involving 200m of climbing or so, parts were very steep (12% according to the GPS) and the gravel didn't help. I think there were actually warnings not to take loaded bikes up there. First there was a very steep climb through the back streets of Gmund, and then the trail became well-marked but loose heading, it seemed, straight over the hilltops. For the first time I really sweated and felt the strain in the legs getting the Shift up to the top of the rather low and road hills, while the scenery became increasingly mountainous.

Anyway, I made without mishap, unless you count disturbing a middle aged couple taking a "comfort break" (I really should stop heartily greeting people when this happens). The descent took us through rather loose trails and dense woods, where I got a couple of curious looks with the loaded bike - there were plenty of other riders, but on mountain bikes.

The sinuous and sometimes steep cycleway up into the country dividing the Tegernsee and the Schliersee

Near the top of the dividing hills in a forested section frequented mostly by mountain bikers

The terrain became surpringsly Alpine between the two lakes

One last fast descent to Hausham and I was by the Schliersee, which was if anything if more densely packed with visitors and their vehicles. The main road, which is the only way around the lake, was a bit of a clogged nightmare actually, and I did my utmost to stay off it - frustratingly the picturesque lake-side drive is pedestrian only, but I managed pick my way through side streets and on pavements.

The setting itself is spectacular though, with the lake sitting in a steep bowl of mountains on three sides. I wondered how the road to Bayrischzell left to the East.

I spotted a church, and having depleted my water again (readers of previous journals will know I have a deep psychological aversion to running out of water) headed straight for it, hoping to find a graveyard tap. Even better, this one had a potable fountain right outside, where I (slowly) re-filled my bottles.

The Schliersee in its bowl of mountains, forming the Austrian border

The Schliersee. Not pictured: the hellaciously busy road packed with tourists

I was worried that the last stretch to Bayrischzell, where I had unusually booked a guesthouse for the night, would be as tough. But it was a smooth riding pleasure, if under increasingly overcast skies. The excellent cycleway was well-signed and kept me well off the main 307 road, which I was worried would continue to take most of the traffic from Schliersee, and followed the tiny branch-line railway that continues to Bayrishzell. I had these deserted backroads to myself and the hazy evening light.

I hope the road to myself in lovely evening conditions. I saw the little train on its way to Bayrischzell pass just once

Before I knew it I was at the turn to the hamlet containing the guesthouse. Just in time it seemed: I felt a drop of rain as I took stock and prepared my poor German vocabulary for checking in. It was still before 5pm - I was surprised how quickly the last stage had gone, and it seemed to bode well for future climbing. Me, and the bike, had fairly easily passed this first 90km. How much worse could it get?

The guesthouse actually turned out to be quite a well-established hotel, and once I'd figured out the Covid- and language-related considerations, I was greeted by a cheery woman who got me checked in, happily lead me and the bike to a shed, and let me know the restaurant arrangements. I was extremely thankful for the last two items, as there was heavy rain forecast and the hotel was some kilometres from Bayrichzell itself.

The lovely guesthouse I stayed in. At 70 euros, I hoped that I'd get some use out of my tent too

I had an excellent meal Kaseknoddel in the restaurant, and enjoyed some wheat beer which is a favourite of mine anyway - but I felt I had a particular excuse as it's also typical of the Munich region. I wasn't sure what the next few days would bring in terms of accommodation and services - would anything be open in Austria - so I was determined to take advantage of it while I could.

The rain hammered down outside as I went to sleep - my hope was that it would rain itself out overnight, and I would have a reasonably dry time of it the next day - when I would be entering Austria, potentially via an off-road forestry trail pass.

Today's ride: 90 km (56 miles)
Total: 100 km (62 miles)

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