Day 90 - Solo: a day in three parts - Unfinished Business

July 29, 2023

Day 90 - Solo: a day in three parts

I'm afraid that I've had a lazy day in Solo free of museums and tofu factories. Instead, I wandered, first to a textile market via a tangle of lanes. I returned for lunch with Wahyu and then visited a food market. I then went out again to make some photographs - real ones. Finally, I'm about to wander more lanes, this time at night.

Part 1 - an excursion to Pasar Klewer

After a short walk, I found Pasar Klewer. And then I ventured in. The place was overwhelming. There were floors of clothes, hundreds of shops, most tiny. The overarching design principle was to minimize the width of the corridors.

I bought a few stamped batik shirts from these ladies.

On my return, I was surprised to see this beast on the tracks.

I was perhaps more surprised to see a Ducati motorcycle sitting outside a shop. I met the owner of the shop, Robby and his sons, Jason and Stanley - again, most engaging people. They seem to sell motorcycles that are most unsuited to Indonesian roads!!! We took a couple of photos later in the day. Unfortunately, I did not look in their shop.

Part 2 - a jaunt to Pasar Gedhe, the big market. I really wanted to stock up on fruit so I walked in the opposite direction to this morning's walk, to Padar Gedhe. I recognized many of the landmarks because I saw them when I cycled into town.

The whereabouts of the market is rather obvious!

I had been in the market for all of 47 seconds when confirmation arrived that it was a genuine market. I saw a rat; it was my ticket to continue. A rather intriguing drink, cendol or dawet, made from black sticky rice and a variety of other ingredients, attracted my eye. That was my first stop.

I then explored the place before buying some fruit and photographing the vendors.

Part 3 - a nighttime jaunt among murals

It is hard to describe how chaotic, crowded and vibrant is Solo. For an hour or so after dark the place enters an uneasy calm before the floodgates open. It becomes almost impossible to move on the streets due to thousands of motorcycles parked all over the show, each having deposited a couple of people. I wanted to experience the thick of it and photograph murals at night.

It's terribly hard to photograph chaos. I hope this provides some idea.

BMW might disapprove but I was amused enough to buy a coffee.

I have no idea what this performance was about, but everyone was enjoying it

Two bicycles inspired me today.

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Bill ShaneyfeltThat might be pushing your age... or even maybe mine!
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1 year ago

Graham SmithIan another very interesting post. It’s almost 40 years since I’ve been to Solo. I can see there’ve been a few changes.

Speaking of art. One of the most memorable art gallery/museums I’ve seen was the Affandi (Effendi) Museum in Yogya.

His art portrays many decades of recent Javanese social history, including some of the most turbulent times.

If you have time when you arrive in the fascinating Kingdom of Yogyakarta:

https://en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/Affandi_Museum
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1 year ago

Ian WallisTo Bill ShaneyfeltBill, I think you're right but the saddle looks new.
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1 year ago

Jackie LaycockIan, thanks for the photos of the ducati and BMW, I'll share them with my husband who has two old laverda's and ducati in our garage. You could hold an exhibition of your photos emtitled faces of indonesia, they are so expressive. I'm really enjoying the blog and glad you made time to see some nightlife!
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1 year ago

Ian WallisTo Jackie LaycockJackie, Don't be conned! The Ducati is real - a 700 cc Monster, a few years old. The BMW, however, is a 150 cc Honda!
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1 year ago

Paul WilliamsBrilliant photos Ian… and what a fascinating experience the market looks…if you any quality tins of paint would you bring them back with you please…haha…have a safe journey…
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1 year ago

Ian WallisTo Paul WilliamsPaul, good to see you popping up. Actually, I am seeing paint shops. I'm a bit dubious of all of the outdoor painting done with no prep. I would have thought a quick blast with a pressure cleaner would be worthwhile. But, I'm no painter!
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1 year ago

Paul WilliamsI love all the different colours…your journey looks amazing I hope everything is going well for you…I was chatting with a cyclist this morning at the tathra hotel and was telling him about you and your journey…also about cycleblaze and the charity you’d chosen…
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1 year ago

Ian WallisTo Paul WilliamsThat's what I need, Paul, spreading the word, being my disciple. Ian
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1 year ago

Graham SmithIan you might have noticed that the two most popular pages of your journal to date are the two most recent pages when you reported on days when you didn’t ride. Instead you journaled the very interesting places you saw within Solo.

This should allay any concerns you had that journaling non-ride days wasn’t within the protocols. Quite the opposite. It seems that your non-riding day reports are more appealing to the reading public.

So that could be another good reason to enjoy more rest days, and soak up the local sights as you progress across Java and Sumatra.
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1 year ago

Ian WallisTo Graham SmithGraham, that's true but it will also mean ducking out of Indonesia and returning to renew a visa. Also, are you going to deal with my bees so they don't swarm. It's pretty easy! Ian
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1 year ago

Graham SmithTo Ian WallisAh … I forgot about the constraints of apiaries & visas.
Back to Plan A… beeline route to Singapore.
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1 year ago

Lyla RoganHi Ian
I am in awe of this trip. I have been to UK and Europe on vacation for 6 weeks and found that tiring in the end. A well earned days rest for you I am sure. Will write a longer message directly but thank you for supporting indigo foundation via this ride. I see there's still a way to go but you have gone so far already!! Lyla
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1 year ago

Ian WallisTo Lyla RoganLyla, always nice to get a little encouragement. The trip has had its tricky bits, none concerning cycling. Ian
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1 year ago

Ian WallisTo Graham SmithGraham, very clever. Hunting down the mushroom restaurant today. Ian
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1 year ago

Ian DouglasA most interesting town that I had never heard mentioned before.
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1 year ago

Ian WallisTo Ian DouglasSolo is a terrific place but it could easily scare you away in the first few minutes. But, get into the centre and explore and you'll get a surprise around every corner. Ian
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1 year ago