Day 77 - A day of celebration, another ferry and no hotel. But there's magic. - Unfinished Business

July 16, 2023

Day 77 - A day of celebration, another ferry and no hotel. But there's magic.

I thought this was going to be short - a quick 100 km to finish Sumbawa, a ferry ride to Lombok and that's about it. It was looking that way, even mid-afternoon but how quickly things change.

The day started with the mosque waking me and my relief that it was 0430 and I had more snooze time. I was on my way early on streets that were chaos last night and quiet today; past the old Sultan's Palace with first stop, a bakery.

I walked here last night; it wasn't easy!

The Sultan's Palace. It gives you the feeling of a tough life.

Four bucks worth of cycling fuel! They were my snacks for 100 km. I still ate lunch and fruit.

I stopped after about 60 km for lunch and easily communicated that I'd like some vegetarian tucker, hot tea and coffee - both with sugar. As I ate, I pondered the big event in 18 km - 6000 km for the trip. I'd need my tripod or a person to help.

I was just coming up to the magic 80 km, when a fellow came up on a motorcycle and with perfect English said "I want to buy you coffee". That was Artha. I explained that I had important business first and described what it was and that he could help. I think he liked the red tie.

Celebrating 6000 km (with the Darwin correction) since May 1. Thanks to Artha for magically appearing when I needed a photo.

And all you "Doubting Thomases", you're probably tossing out your shoes when they've still got 10,000 km left. Folks, there's no better possession than an old pair of shoes!

Artha - a champion! We had a great chat over drinks. He answered many of my questions.

So, Artha and I parted ways with me heading to the ferry at Pototano. There were a few niggling hills and a headwind but I needed think only of last Sunday to feel untroubled.

It was the same ludicrous system: put money on a BRIZZI card and then go elsewhere, where they scan the card and issue a ticket. One little hitch - the power was out for a time. It cost 32,000 rp for my bike and I.

It was definitely the slow boat to Labuan Lombok, pulling about 5 knots. If I'm on a boat for two hours I like to look back and not see my departure point! But the scenery compensated.

That's 3726 m Gunung Rinjani, an active volcano, hiding at the left of the picture.

It was pretty much dark as I cycled away from the port. There seemed to be two hotels, one booked out and the other, Casa Captain Dragon, is unknown to locals. I was all set to return to the police at the port when Opandi and his wife, Uma, offered me a place in their home. I accepted and followed them out.

We ate and then went to a rather bizarre magic show at the local football field.

This fellow is calling the act! What an orator!

This fellow is tied in a shroud and goes in the box, which is locked.

The formula is repeated over and over. Someone is selected from the crowd and something happens, eg they are rubbed down with dencorub - yes, seriously. This causes the tent to shake and when it's lifted the shroud sits on the box or a glass of water that was on the box is empty or......They then run around and sell the magic agent, such as small tubes of dencorub. People are in a frenzy to get their sample. A lot of money changes hands.

We didn't stay to the end; by 1030 pm I was exhausted. We returned, lay down and, when all human noise expired, I detected a sound. It was too subtle for the odd rat that was cruising. I looked to the pile of bricks, adjacent to my bed, and it was alive - with roaches. I closed my eyes and slipped into the most glorious sleep, my first next to a roach hotel.

The morning would explain things to me.

Today's ride: 104 km (65 miles)
Total: 5,918 km (3,675 miles)

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