Day 67 - climbing in the morning and coasting in the afternoon - Unfinished Business

July 6, 2023

Day 67 - climbing in the morning and coasting in the afternoon

The pre-dawn chorus was stiff competition between the local mosque and Boawae's rooster population. Pigs came in late. I looked at my watch and realised I could doze for another hour and a half and still start early.

A constant throughout the day was bamboo, so let's start with one of the uses of the stuff.

No idea what it's all about but it would be lying on the ground without bamboo.

I knew the morning would be tough - about 500 m of climbing, so I was pedaling by 7.30. For the afternoon, however, I expected 1200 m of descending. Hopefully, it would be gradual and go all of the way to Aimere.

To my dismay, the first thing I did was descend for 3 km. I had just started to climb when I saw an elderly gentleman, crucifix hanging from his neck, sitting in the road. He was in a dangerous spot so I tried to coax him off but he just wanted his photo taken. He knew what he was doing even if I didn't.

I climbed and climbed for over 30 km. The road was reasonably quiet but I did get a few hangers-on: lads riding scooters who sit behind me and film. More than anything, its the noise I don't like.

Finally, I reached the top, descended for a couple of km and then looked down on Bajawa, 1100 m asl. If I went there I'd need to climb out again. I decided to forego the culinary riches that no doubt lay below and instead grabbed lunch at a hole in the wall at the turnoff to Aimere. I loitered for some time, feeling as though I had done something? Guess I had.

Bajawa. Somewhere, hidden in the clouds, is the volcano, Inierie.

The afternoon gave me just what I wanted - switchbacks for 30 km and then a further 5 of km descending in a straight line.

Bamboo featured heavily - growing or harvested. The stems were massive and I passed a fellow on a motorcycle towing a couple uphill.

I found that I could easily keep up with the faster vehicles which meant that I had few that wanted to overtake.

At one point everything became foggy, but fortunately only light.

There seems to be a dog every km or so, most with collars or a chain. There's the odd chaser, invariably at a settlement, but mostly they're terrified of me.

I appreciated the distance markers getting a lick of paint. This one's indicating Waelengga, Aimere's port, of which I'll steer clear. The ferry goes to Kupang!

I wasn't far from the bottom when I looked to my left and saw the most rugged of ridges framed by banana leaves. That's Flores for you.

I found accommodation the easy way - by opening my eyes and recognizing the word "penginapan", which just happens to mean "accommodation". The lack of English suggests that it's aimed at locals. The bathroom confirms it.

Today's ride: 77 km (48 miles)
Total: 5,256 km (3,264 miles)

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