July 3, 2023
Day 63 - Today I traveled
My aim today was to ride 70 km to Paga, find another beach bungalow and set myself up for tomorrow's 1000 m climb to Moni. Thus, it didn't bother me that I pedaled out of Sunset at 9.30. But also, I had no idea what awaited me down the road.
It was an uneventful 30 km ride into Maumere, quiet to start; busy to finish. There were many dressed in their Sunday best carrying tattered bibles. Song came from churches. I watched the vegetables grow as I rode past them and pondered the meaning of m = mc2.
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I hadn't eaten as much as I needed so ducked into a restaurant to fuel for the climb. Lucky I did because the climb was harder than I envisaged, especially when the rain started. It was mostly drizzle as I rode. Did it make we wetter or cool me? No, to both. I hid in a filthy bus shelter for a quick break.
The scenery was much like yesterday's. After 60 km for the day I felt hungry. The rain was now harder and, fortunately, I spotted a church where I could hide myself away under cover. The going had been reasonably hard and I needed to relax. I'd already had enough "hello misters" to last a lifetime. Imagine doing this in Australia - top of your voice in a tourist's face.
I didn't realise, at that point, that I was about to descend - steeply. In front of me, a fellow on a scooter clipped a half-grown chicken, wounding it severely. He stopped immediately, did a u-turn and went back to face the music. I continued as paddy appeared.
It was interesting descending on the winding, wet road with no idea of when there'd be a very tight hairpin. There was one at the bottom. Fortunately, I was ready for it.
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I saw no accommodation in Paga and to make it harder the rain became torrential. It's the dry season - 25 mm for the month. My glasses were wet and fogged and I had trouble drying a finger to use my phone. Eventually. I managed to contact Ricky Cowboy's Homestay, 4.5 km away and with 150 m of climbing.
Fortunately, the rain eased just as the day got long. I jumped on my bike and attacked a short hill of ridiculous gradient: 15-20% that took me over a headland sporting a big Jesus. How many "hello misters" did I get just on that hill? And the garbage - as bad as it gets. It tested me to the limits. Riding a bike is the easy bit.
I found Ricky Cowboy's easily but I had no idea what I had found. It seemed like a couple of bungalows and an open kitchen and bathroom in a bamboo thicket. Why this vagueness? The rain had knocked the power out, but only at Ricky's. He cooked up some noodles, rice, eggs and vegetables that I ate in my bungalow as the rain continued. In this situation, 5-star accommodation.
Perhaps I paid the penalty for breaking my golden rule of getting an early start. But today I traveled.
Today's ride: 80 km (50 miles)
Total: 4,992 km (3,100 miles)
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May you have easier days but full of just as rich new experiences.
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