Day 113 - Sumatra, I hope, on a red tie day. - Unfinished Business - CycleBlaze

August 21, 2023

Day 113 - Sumatra, I hope, on a red tie day.

The sole redeeming feature of this place is the breakfast. It's like freshly cooked Masakan Padang - hot, and there are decent vegetables. I had a chat to the cockatoo on the way to the dining room. He's very sociable; obviously craves attention; very sad. 

I lingered at breakfast hoping to get a fill that will at least get me to the ferry. I'd already had a few banana dogs while writing yesterday's blog. After breakfast I noticed this room.

What more did I need to know about this place?
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I had another difficult start to the day. I'd dragged my bike up and down steps to get it out of the Kharisma, pedaled 500 m and then realised that I had a spongy rear tyre. It was one of those annoying ones, where you're unsure what caused it. If I'd realised back at the hotel, I could have dipped the tube in the pool. Anyway, I decided the leak is around the valve stem and inserted a new tube. Tonight, I'll fix the old one by punching a hole in a patch through which I will thread the valve. Well, so much for Sumatra today!

I tried a minor road this morning that gave me a nicer ride to Serang, although it did require me finding a lane that led to a suspension bridge. I saw several trucks with broiler chickens heading north. The cages on those heading south were empty.

A sight I have seen all over Indonesia. You have something to slow traffic, blast music and have people with butterfly nets collecting cash. The cause seems always to be the building or upkeep of a mosque.
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I aimed to line up the woman, the umbrella and the house.
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I have no idea about the original function of this building, but it looks perfect for the production of swiftlet nests. Or just let them in and let them be.
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John GrantThe vegetation claims everything that doesn't move !
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1 year ago
The lane to the suspension bridge.
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It was an interesting cycle.
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Another from the bamboo series: ramp and pontoon. This one's special.
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The suspension bridge spans a wide river. I can't find its name on Google maps.
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Independence celebrations seem to kick on. Today is day 5!
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This fellow was fishing with a net from a bamboo barge.
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John GrantThat's a fair sized throw-net ! He must be a very handy caster Ian
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1 year ago

A little down the way there was a nasty little pinch that went up and over an almost deserted toll road. This is interesting because, in Bogor, people complain of traffic jams on these roads. 

A study of a caged toll road. I don't feel particularly sorry for it but it does interest me - decent shoulder, fast, easy kms!!
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Most people would have enjoyed the first 30 km today, assuming that they could stomach something that I have seen every day in Indonesia.

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John GrantI can see how seeing this day after day would get you down Wal.
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1 year ago
Ian WallisTo John GrantJohn, exactly!! I just don't understand it because it suggests zero connection with the planet. Mind you, it's a common sight over much of the world. I have seen people clear garbage and then spread a picnic rug. Cora and I have watched a nun cross herself on the Mount of Olives, a dumping ground for all types of garbage. I cope by putting it on my blog.
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1 year ago
John GrantTo Ian WallisAs you mention elsewhere in the blog Ian, I think you've nailed it with a combination of living hand to mouth and lack of education.
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1 year ago

The next 45 km to the ferry terminal at Merak was a ride few would enjoy although it's always interesting playing the traffic. Also, there's always the odd rose among the squalor.

Roadside cemeteries are a source of shade with a little less noise.
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Jackie Laycockand hopefully a little less rubbish
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1 year ago
An attractive plant nursery on the main road.
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These wild horses will drag me towards Singapore.
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John GrantThat's money very well spent !
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1 year ago
It's a decent load. He's got a length of bamboo to aid the sidestand.
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This load of plastic footballs had me thinking again about the Women's World Cup. I may have watched the final yesterday, if fortune had gone my way. On two or three occasions, earlier in the tournament, I arrived at a hotel when there was a key game in progress. I saw that four free-to-air Indonesian stations had the rights to broadcast the games. Thus, I asked a hotel employee to tune into those stations and, in every instance, they were not showing the game.

Why, would this be? Every day I pass schools where boys are kicking a ball. What would have happened if Indonesian girls could have watched the most successful WWC ever? Surely, some of them would start to kick a ball.

At some point on this busy road, I stopped at a convenience store for a rest and a cold drink. I didn't stay long because a fellow sat nearby with a fag. I asked him to move a little and he gave me that same story - strong, he said, pointing to the cigarette. That's a daily occurrence but I experienced something else for the first time. The voluntary parking inspector (they garner tips), also smoking, came over pointing at my legs. He was clearly upset by my bare lower legs. Not only a voluntary parking guy but a morality policeman too. I can expect more of this in Sumatra. 

This was the story from Serang to Cilegon.
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John GrantThat looks like tough work Ian !
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1 year ago
Ian WallisTo John GrantJohn, it was ok; pleasnt cycling? No! You do have to keep your mind on the job, especially for the undertaking motorcycles. I'm sure there's a few joules in the smog.
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1 year ago
John GrantTo Ian WallisI definitely prefer gastric nutrition Wal !
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1 year ago
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All of the world's big chemical companies have a slice of the foreshore near Merap. I'd think twice about swimming.
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Graham SmithSomewhere in Indonesia, there’s a factory churning out millions of Schwalbe tyres and tubes.

Could be in Cilegon somewhere.
And could there be a factory outlet offering wholesale prices to passing cycle tourers.

(Follow me online for more helpful tips.)
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1 year ago

As I approached Merap I watched my odometer tick over to 68 km. I should have stopped but instead I gave a little punch of the air and continued to the ferry terminal. Although late, I thought that I could cross to Sumatra. Ferries leave every 12 minutes and there's a choice of express or normal. With my profound knowledge of the ticketing system, I could be on one in minutes. Then I discovered, that for these ferries, it's online booking only.

I returned to a hotel that looked reasonable, booked in and then asked an employee if she could take a few photos of me. I put on my red tie and celebrated 8000 km for the trip. Unless I fold in the next few days, this will be my second longest ride.

Celebrating 8007 km outside Hotel Feri Merak. The red tie is not really working.
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John GrantWell done Wal !
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1 year ago
Ian WallisTo John GrantJohn, thanks for your comments once again. Always enjoy them. Looking forward to catching up. Ian
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1 year ago
John GrantTo Ian WallisThere's a bed here for you on your return Ian. I'll even organise a handful of cockroaches, if you'd like ?
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1 year ago
My photographer, Alissa, takes a very good photograph. She can be "vendor of the day".
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I nearly forgot! The left shoe is looking good. The right, however, is beginning to wear out.
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Bill ShaneyfeltNothing a bit of tape can't take care of! Been there myself...
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1 year ago

I'm paying the same tariff tonight as I did last night at Kharisma. The difference is that I have a nice room with a/c, a TV I won't watch and a pleasant view. I get the impression that the place has seen better days. There's a lot of natural-history photographs around the place and even a display case of butterflies. I discovered a pool by looking out of my window. The courtyard is very nice, mosquitoes fly in and mate on your phone, and there's even something for the cat lover.

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I still needed that ferry ticket and so I downloaded the app (there's an Indonesian version only), and when I was setting up an account, it rejected my email or password. I walked down the road for a coffee and paid a scalper a couple of dollars to get me a ticket. The coffee was free!

Alissa suggested a restaurant on the waterfront - breaking the golden rule of avoiding waterfront restaurants in Asia, but when I got there it was closed. Instead, I went to a street vendor and struck someone with imagination. Not every fresh tomato has to go into sambal.

Freshly baked fish and some tofu. Unfortunately, the fellow who cooked it didn't want to be photographed. He missed out on "vendor of the day".
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I walked back thinking that I didn't reach Sumatra, but I've had a good day. From now on, every 14 km or so, I'll be knocking off 1% of the remaining kms. That's easier than having to do 95!

Even at 10 pm, the compressor runs and tyres are fixed or replaced.
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John GrantTo Hopefully the dulcet tones of the compressor aren't heard from your room Wal !
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1 year ago
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Today's ride: 75 km (47 miles)
Total: 7,901 km (4,907 miles)

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