It's a beautiful morning on the last day of our tour. We're getting an early start, a full 10 minutes before our standard 9:20 departure time. Barry and I will be back here in August for the biennial family pilgrimage to the Cape. I'm looking forward to seeing what Marc and Geri do to the new place over the next couple of months.
To start we'll backtrack west a little ways to pick up the Cape Cod Rail Trail. It's worth a few extra miles to avoid some busy roads and ride on this beautiful path. Momentum Magazine recognized the CCRT on a short list of 11 best rail trails in North America, along with the Katy Trail, the Great Allegheny Passage, and the Mickelson Trail. The CCRT might pre-date all of them. The first 19 miles opened in 1981. Now the trail extends 25 miles from Yarmouth to Wellfleet.
We're headed for the Beachcomber, an historic restaurant with an awesome view from its perch on a hill overlooking the National Seashore in Wellfleet. The building dates back to 1897 when it was a lifesaving station. Russell Gallagher bought the station in 1953 and converted it into an inn. He decorated the walls with driftwood and other odds and ends he had "combed" off Cahoon Hollow Beach. When the beach became part of the Cape Cod National Seashore in 1961, the Beachcomber was one of a handful of businesses allowed to continue operating in the park lands.
On this sunny Saturday of Memorial Day weekend the parking lot is full and the bar is loud. Biking is a good way to get here. They charge 30 bucks to park a car, then you get a certificate for $30 to spend in the restaurant. After a 30 minute wait we have an ok lunch. The real draw for me is the seashore.
After lunch the guys get back on their bikes and continue on. I'm going to stay awhile and walk the beach. No need to rush through the last ride. The water is not too cold, just fine for a walk. Assateague Beach in Virginia still stands out as the beach with the coldest water we've been to.
From here I'm halfway to Provincetown. The next seven miles are on a different route than what we usually ride on the way to PTown, staying on the east side of the mid-Cape highway through Truro. This must be the quietest town on Cape Cod. Much of Truro lies within the national seashore so it's the most sparsely populated of all the towns on the Cape, and it's lovely.
We have camped almost half the nights on this trip, more than any tour we've done. So it feels right to wrap things up with one last camping night. Tonight we're at the Dune's Edge Campground in Provincetown, between downtown on the south shore and Race Point Beach on the north shore. Mike got us a last minute reservation on a holiday weekend Saturday for $55. Pretty good deal in a town where hotels run upwards of $350 a night.
The campground is at the top of one more steep punchy hill. When I catch up with Barry and Mike at the campsite there's just enough time left to run by the Stop & Shop for dinner provisions and ride out to the beach for sunset.
In the morning there's time to ride around town before the ferry to Boston leaves at 10:30. It's pretty quiet early on a Sunday morning, mostly joggers and a few people in the shops. They open early here at 9:00. We park our bikes by the ticket office for the ferry and check out the artsy scene.
I forgot to grab a picture before we struck the tents in our tiny campsite.
You can get a great view of Provincetown from Pilgrim Monument. The 252-foot-tall granite tower commemorates the first landing here of the Mayflower in 1620 before the Pilgrims continued on to Plymouth.
In Esteban del Valle’s “Time and the Town” mural, fox fishermen and workers wait to get inside a tumble-down dune shack, reflecting the local housing crisis.
On the dock, a long line for the ferry to Boston moves quickly and soon we're on board. One of the workers securely ties our bikes to the railings. I'm glad for that when the boat speeds up for the 90 minute crossing.
From here it's all pretty easy. At the other end of the ferry a water taxi will take us to Logan airport where Mike will get a flight home. Barry and I will pick up a minivan rental to drive home with all the bikes. We'll have plenty of time in the car to reflect on the journey and wrap up a few final thoughts.
Patrick O'HaraNice work people. Great following along. Really enjoyed the writing and photos of your adventure. Reply to this comment 2 months ago
Janice BranhamTo Patrick O'HaraThanks Patrick! It takes me forever to get this stuff done but I'm always glad to be able to look back on what we did. Appreciate your encouragement. Reply to this comment 2 months ago
Today's ride: 51 miles (82 km) Total: 2,566 miles (4,130 km)
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Betsy EvansI'm not at all familiar with lots of these coastal areas. I've really enjoyed following along on your trip - thanks for the great write-up and photos. Congrats on completing this long journey! Reply to this comment 2 months ago
Janice BranhamTo Betsy EvansThanks Betsy. All those beaches had their own feel - underfoot and everywhere else. I never got tired of checking out a new one. Glad you enjoyed it too. Reply to this comment 2 months ago
