To Long Key: a big bridge and a lot of bugs

March 27, 2024

Left to our own devices, Barry and I are not great at early starts. 10:3o is par for the course. Mike has inspired us with his industrious morning habits. We've managed to get going before 10 every day so far. Good thing considering we're relying on the first-come-first-served hiker-biker sites.

I've had flags snap off in high winds before so I folded it up yesterday. Since the winds have abated a little today, I'll let my freak flag fly. Say that three times fast.

At the Missouri Key, named by workers from our home state who were on the crew that built the Overseas Railroad in the early 20th century.

We're seeing lots of people fishing from the bridges today. Most are fairly well-covered from the sun.

Of the 42 bridges we'll cross between Key West and Key Largo, today we get the granddaddy - the famed Seven Mile Bridge. It's long but not difficult. Like the other bridges, it has a good wide shoulder. It's just a bit unnerving in a stiff breeze.

Mike cranks it up and pulls away. He does not like hanging out on these bridges any longer than necessary.

Good daydream fodder to entertain us on the crossing

Speed bump ahead. The bridge rises in the middle to provide 65 feet of clearance for boats to pass under.

At the east end of the bridge there's a marker for the Old Seven Mile Bridge which is now car-free. It doesn't go all the way across though. The old bridge was an engineering wonder when it was built from 1909 to 1912 for the Overseas Railroad. When the rail bridge was converted for the new Overseas Highway in 1938, the rails were reused as guardrails.

The Old Seven Mile Bridge, open for walkers and cyclists, now ends at Pigeon Key.

On the Old Seven Mile Bridge, sporting my newest UV defense tactic - sun socks. Nerding hard today.

In Marathon we check off a rash of errands, first at the hardware store to replace a missing bike lock, then the grocery store for provisions. Mike's phone hasn't been charging, a problem we might get some help with at a nearby repair shop. We're so tied to our phones for travel logistics now that it's the next priority. At the shop the service man cleans out the charging port and reports that it still doesn't work, but wireless charging does. That spawns the next errand for a wireless charger.

We're foiled on the last errand to pick up a general delivery package at the post office because it closed at 12:30. On a Thursday? That's a cushy work schedule.

We need to move on to Long Key State Park to snag the last hiker-biker site. I get started, knowing the boys will catch up with me before long. When the paved trail gives way to gravel I keep going for awhile before I figure out I'm supposed to be back on the road shoulder. I never like going backwards. The grassy median looks easy to cross to get back to the road so I plunge in. Big mistake. The weeds are full of itchy sticky little things, and now so are my baggy bike pants and goofy socks.

What are these nasty things poking through my pants? Too many to pull them all out here. I'll have to duck behind a bush to change pants, and try not to pick up any more while I'm at it.

The wind has died way down and it's getting hot and humid by the time I catch up with the guys at Long Key State Park. This one is further down the primitive end of the scale than Bahia Honda. It's a long walk from the campsites to the bathroom, which has no power, no lights other than skylights, and no hot water. It's so hot and sticky here that I don't mind a cold shower anyway. The ranger is nice enough to let us charge things in the office a half mile away.

On the boardwalk over the mangroves that leads to camp

Our sandy campsite is tiny, exposed, and smells like low tide. The guys have sprung into action to make things homey, setting up tents, chairs and clotheslines. Barry rigs up the tarp to make a little shade for us. Mike digs out his secret spice stash and cooks up a tasty dinner of chicken thighs with vegetables and yellow rice.

How lucky am I to travel with a couple of Boy Scout Dads?

Then the no-see-ums attack, or maybe they're sand fleas. Whatever, they are tiny and relentless. After all my kvetching about wind, we could use it now. Time to retreat to the tents.

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Today's ride: 34 miles (55 km)
Total: 83 miles (134 km)

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marilyn swettInteresting that the state parks in the Keys now have hiker/biker campsites. When we did a Florida tour several years ago, they didn't offer them at all. You were out of luck if you arrived on a bike so we ended up staying in high priced motels.
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8 months ago

Janice BranhamTo marilyn swettI have heard different things about the H&B sites. The ACA references a no-turn-away policy, but two rangers said if someone else gets to the first-come-first-served sites before you, you're out of luck. Good thing we rode short miles in the Keys and could get to the parks early.
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8 months ago