April 26, 2024
To Jacksonville
Dolly sent us off with a great getaway photo this morning. I wish I could say the same about the one I took of her and Miranda. I need to remember to take more than one shot.
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We're at the start of a five-day ride that will get us to Ocracoke Island on North Carolina's Outer Banks. A bit of headwind is slowing me down this morning. Barry has a hard time riding this slow so after awhile he pulls ahead with a promise to wait for me down the road.
The roads are quiet and relaxed for the first 18 miles until I reach U.S. 17 where cars whiz by at my elbows. The narrow, messy shoulder is not working for me so I pull out and take the lane.
The move produces the desired effect. Drivers are giving me space, although a couple communicate their displeasure about it. Then an angel pulls in behind me, turns on her flashers and follows me a couple car lengths back for at least a mile. Spotting Barry waiting for me ahead, I wave wildly at him to join me and my rear guard.
When our escort turns off, another takes her place and stays with us almost to the point where the shoulder widens out and we can ride it comfortably. I am so thankful to those two kind drivers for the time they took to help us through this stretch.
We catch up with Mike, a rare sighting, at the Surf City Publix for lunch. Their yummy poke bowls that I discovered in Florida are back after disappearing in Georgia and South Carolina. Another point in North Carolina's favor. They have good easy stuff for dinner too. I find some heat-n-eat Tuscan Shrimp and Orzo and for me and Chicken Marsala for Barry that fit easily in my pannier. As much money as I've been spreading around Publix stores for groceries, I figure its time to sign up as a club member. Maybe we'll save a few pennies.
Traffic follows us over the bridge onto the Surf City island. This is not a particularly fun day on the road. At least the cars aren't moving at highway speed now. We got a late start so there isn't time to walk the beach but we do enjoy a break from traffic on the shore road.
Circling back to 17, we're on a decent shoulder that's still loud and unpleasant. I can see a gravel road running parallel to the west of the highway, if we can just figure out how to get there. A break in traffic gives us an opening to cross over and bushwhack through the weeds. Worth it! The road is the good kind of gravel - crushed stone like the Katy Trail back home, and there's nobody else on it. I'm happy to have a few miles where I don't have to study my rear view mirror and can just enjoy riding through the woods.
Tent sites are spacious at Cabin Creek Campground just south of Jacksonville. They have a lovely room in the shower house where I can sit and write for a little while - when I can carve out some time from the business of camping. So much is consumed in the process of figuring out where to put things, and then trying to remember where I put the things.
By the time we fix dinner, clean up and figure out tomorrow's plan the evening passes quickly. We're one day and 60 miles closer to the Outer Banks. Progress.
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Today's ride: 59 miles (95 km)
Total: 1,354 miles (2,179 km)
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