To Harwich

May 23, 2024

We've been lucky to have three straight sunny days. The forecast doesn't looks so good for today. We'll probably get wet at some point.

First Barry and I are going to burn some partly sunny time on breakfast back at Maison Villatte, the french bakery in town. It has to be awfully good for me to pass on our usual quick granola-and-go routine, and it is. The Quiche aux Epinards and Chaussons aux Pommes are "Chef's kiss."

We are headed to the new home of Marc and Geri Paradis, my cousin and his wife. After four years of searching they have found a house in Harwich on the edge of Chatham which is sort of a center of gravity for our family. It's just 10 minutes from where Marc's parents - my Uncle Ray and Aunt Anita - lived for many years.

I reached out to Marc several weeks ago about coming through on the 23rd and he said they'd be moved in by then. After Barry, Mike and I deliberated more over how long to stay at various points on the way, I checked back with Marc about the possibility of coming a day or two earlier. That's when I found out just how new the house is to them. He said we could come sooner although things might be hectic as they would be moving in May 21 & 22!

So we are sticking with the original plan to arrive the 23rd. I'm marveling at their good cheer over three dirtbag bikers descending upon them so soon.

We're starting out on Route 28, a major auto and truck route through the Cape. It's a road I avoid whenever possible. Most drivers are giving us the four feet of space required under the new bike passing law in this state. It's still not a fun road to ride, too busy. We'll take any opportunity to get off of it.

First cyclist sign I've seen on the shoulder on 28. That's some progress.

28 is the grey line from Bourne south to Falmouth, then east to Chatham and north to Orleans. The headscratcher for me is if you travel anywhere on 28 in the direction of Orleans it says you're going south.

Pretty little Cape Cod house. My dad built one similar to this that was our family's first home in Wilbraham Mass. It had the more traditional chimney in the middle.

On the quieter Old Barnstable road in Mashpee, headed uphill

A brand new bike path in Mashpee, not on any of the maps yet.

Neighborhood scenes feel familiar even though this is my first time through here.

After mile 17 we're done with Route 28 and get to ride on quiet roads all the way to Hyannis. The skies are getting darker though. We can hear thunder advancing toward us from the west.

Google maps shows the location of the two houses in Hyannisport where John F. Kennedy and Robert F. Kennedy lived on the family compound. It's not until we get there that we realize they aren't open to the public. The gate is open for a quick picture though.

JFK's home on the Kennedy compound in Hyannisport

The place for the Kennedy family story is two miles further down the road at the John F. Kennedy Museum in Hyannis. That's where the rain finally catches up to us. Across the street from the museum I spy the big awnings in front of Pizza Barbone. We maneuver the bikes under them just as the downpour really gets going. Inside at the bar we watch as the cook makes a pizza for us and fires it in a wood oven.

The bikes stayed pretty dry under those big black awnings.

While we are happily working through our pizza, I can see Mike's location on Google Maps. He's about eight miles ahead of us on the Cape Cod Rail Trail, getting soaked about now. Sorry dude.

It's still raining after lunch. It looks like the system could move on in a couple hours. We'll wait it out over at the museum. Inside are two floors of photographs, stories and short films about the Kennedys - JFK, Bobby, Jackie, John Jr. and their families.

Images of sweet moments are everywhere - JFK driving a gang of nieces and nephews around in a golf cart, sailing trips, 3-year-old John-John chasing after Dad, Bobby and Ethel during his run for the presidency. It's a good place to reflect on the the legacy of President Kennedy through projects he drove forward, like the moon landing, the Peace Corps and the Cape Cod National Seashore.

Back outside the rain has mostly stopped. We just have to get through three miles of busy wet roads in Hyannis to reach the Cape Cod Rail Trail in Yarmouth.

On the trail I am finally back in terra cognita, a place where we've done many family rides. The CCRT connects to the Old Colony Trail that goes into Harwich, two miles from Marc and Geri's place.

They don't bother with signs to walk your bike at the crossings in Yarmouth. Just put up a big gate that forces the issue.

Crossing the Bass River into Dennis. Several bridges on the Cape Cod Rail Trail keep cyclists above the rivers and off busy roads.

At Marc and Geri's house the moving vans are gone and the place looks remarkably calm and comfortable. Marc is on his way out the door to a party. We're staying another night and will catch up tomorrow. Geri is ready for us. She loves to make big hearty salads and I'm here for it.

It looks like we'll have sun again tomorrow for a ride to some of our favorite spots in Chatham. Just two days left to Provincetown!

Heart

Comment

Link

Today's ride: 45 miles (72 km)
Total: 2,498 miles (4,020 km)

Rate this entry's writing	Heart	5
Comment on this entry	Comment	0