To Falmouth MA

May 22, 2024

Falmouth sits on the southwest corner of Cape Cod just 19 miles from our motel in Buzzard's Bay. I have driven past the signs for Falmouth dozens of times on the way to Chatham. Barry made a 90 mile round trip there from Chatham on the bike a few years ago to visit the Woods Hole Oceanographic Institute.

Today is my big chance to see the place on a much shorter and easier ride. We have a gorgeous day for it, and time this afternoon to check the ocean science stuff in Woods Hole.

First we have to get over the Bourne Bridge. There's no bike lane on it, just a sidewalk and a drop of 12 inches or more from there down to the roadway. Everything I've read about getting across the bridge on a bike recommends walking. This seems wise.

Looking down the Cape Cod Canal towards the railroad bridge

After riding the path along the canal for a little while we continue south on the Shore Road through the neighborhoods. Small harbors are tucked into the inlets here and there.

In North Falmouth we get on the Shining Sea Bikeway, a rail trail that runs to the village of Woods Hole. The path was named for a line in the song America The Beautiful, written by Falmouth native Katharine Lee Bates.

Clear freshwater ponds abound on the Cape

The Great Sippewissett Marsh, important habitat for shellfish and migratory birds

Barry is having another rough day mechanically. The electric shifter in front is flaky again and his chain comes off soon after we get on the bike path. Then the rear tire flats again because the patch he put on the tube yesterday failed. It's one of those pre-glued "Super" patches. We won't be using any more of those. When he tries to remove the patch the tube tears in half so cleanly it looks like it was cut with scissors.

On the bikeway near Falmouth Town Center, a mural painted by Falmouth High School students portrays the salt marshes, the ferry to Martha's Vineyard nearby, seaside life, and the train that once ran here.

In the town center of Falmouth we detour off the bikeway to drop our panniers off at the motel and find some lunch. My search for takeout sandwiches turns up a real French bakery - Maison Villatte. They have a yummy Cape sandwich of turkey and brie on a cranberry baguette that we split for lunch. I can't resist picking up two pretty little tarts for a snack later. Then it's back to the bike path for a few more miles down to Woods Hole.

French cafe music plays at Maison Villatte, an authentic boulangerie

Ooh la la! I want one of everything. We'll have to come back here tomorrow for breakfast

It's a skinny one, but there is a beach here.

The village of Woods Hole, part of the town of Falmouth, is home to a scientific community of marine biologists and oceanographic researchers. It seems fitting to be here after two months of cruising the beaches on the Atlantic Ocean.

We catch up with Mike at the Science Aquarium. Established in 1875, it's said to be the oldest public aquarium in the country. Scientists with NOAA Fisheries here collect data on the distribution and health of marine life in the region. They have a collection of 80 species of animals from the Northeast and Mid-Atlantic waters.

The Atlantic Wolffish is a bottom dweller that ranges from Cape Cod north to Greenland and gets up to 5 feet long. Handsome fella.

Striped Burrfish puff themselves up by taking in water and air, making their spines stick out to deter predators.

Loggerheads range up and down the Atlantic. We were near prime nesting grounds on North Carolina's Outer Banks. The incubation temperature determines the sex of the turtles. The warmer the sand, the more female turtles.

Looks like a baby turtle. It's actually an 18 year old Diamondback Terrapin.

After the aquarium we have a little time to check out the Woods Hole Oceanographic Institute. WHOI operates a fleet of research vessels to study the ocean and its role in the health of the planet.

Their research into the Twilight Zone -dark places 200-1,000 meters deep- shows the ocean's impact in sequestering carbon. Each year, the ocean absorbs about 2.5 billion tons of carbon dioxide through photosynthesis and migration of marine life from the surface to deeper water. Carbon trapped below the Twilight Zone can stay there for more than 100 years.

This little guy is playing in a replica of the Alvin, a submersible that can dive as much as 6500 meters below sea level.

Researchers using the Alvin bring back marine life samples from deep in the ocean, like the giant tubeworms that live near hydrothermal vents.

On the way back to town we stop for a walk on the skinny beach. Two friendly young women from Falmouth in bikinis seem not at all bothered by the cool wind. The sand isn't pristine like so many of the beaches we've visited, still nice to walk on barefoot though. This early in the season the water is warmer than I expected, certainly more so than back on Assateague Island in Virginia. That's the coldest water I can remember.

Mike is dining at the beach tonight under the full moon. The provisioning is pretty good around here. I think he mentioned a Boston Cream Pie.

Mike's view of the moon. He heard someone say it's a Strawberry Moon.

We are more into the idea of an indoor meal. There's a nice looking Italian place downtown not far from the motel.

Dinner at La Cucina Sul Mare. After their salad with cranberry and macadamia nut dressing, the linguini with scallops and shrimp is the perfect finish to a great day.

One more peek at the lovely moon. Those clouds do seem to have a strawberry tinge to them.

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Today's ride: 29 miles (47 km)
Total: 2,453 miles (3,948 km)

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Rachael AndersonI finally got caught up on your journal! I see the post is from May 22. I hope all is well with both of you! I’m sorry Barry and you have had so many bike issues.
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3 months ago

Rich FrasierThis sounds like it was almost a perfect cycle touring day. Sorry about that flat, Barry!
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3 months ago

Janice BranhamTo Rachael AndersonYep, I have slowed down on the posts, guess I'm savoring the last few days. We've had issues for sure. I'm just happy we have managed to keep pedaling.
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3 months ago

Janice BranhamTo Rich FrasierIt really was a lovely day, the kind that makes me want to do this all the time.
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3 months ago