Terra Incognita

March 20, 2024

Let's go to the beach

As a kid growing up in western Massachusetts, I loved our family camping trips on Cape Cod in the summer. We would meet up with aunts, uncles and cousins to play late into the afternoons on Chatham's beaches by the chilly waters of Nantucket Sound. I'm not much for cold water swimming but would do it for a chance to go sailing with my Dad.

There's Dad in the red short shorts and Uncle Ray with a catamaran they sailed off of Hardings Beach. We'd see them out there flying the hull over the waves, whooping their heads off.

Upstate New York is about as far south as we ventured on family trips when I was young. As an adult most of my travels with Barry have been to the west, north and south of Missouri. Barry lived in Chapel Hill, North Carolina for a time years ago, but most of the mid-Atlantic and southeast states are Terra Incognita for me. Google reminds me of this now and then when it emails me maps with red pins showing where we have been the last few years. Empty space stretches from Florida to Pennsylvania.

There's a lot of unexplored territory on the Atlantic coast, and beaches where I figure the water has to be warmer than in Massachusetts.

This spring we mean to fill in some of that gap and check off seven more states on the list of where we have cycled. The general plan follows the Adventure Cycling Association's Atlantic Coast route from Key West north to the Outer Banks of North Carolina. We'll veer off on the DelMarVa route through Virginia, Delaware and Maryland, then continue through Philadelphia and New Jersey to New York City.

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Reading up on the East Coast Greenway, I came away with the idea that much of it is aspirational. It could be great someday but there's a fair amount of bellyaching in blogs and forums about busy shoulderless roads on the ECG. While the Adventure Cycling route will surely also have traffic, I have more faith in the ACA. After all, they've been at this business of routing touring cyclists for 40 years. Still, if you have been on parts of the ECG that we ought to consider, any advice is appreciated.

While we have a route and a couple of months to do it, we have almost no reservations other than a campsite for two nights in Key West. For me that constitutes "winging it" - a thing I rarely do. Usually I like to have accommodations squared away. This time the schedule is loose as long as we're home by early June. If we want extra time to slow down, soak in a particularly lovely beach, take a detour or deal with the unexpected, no worries.

Hopefully by traveling before the busy summer season and bringing the camping gear we'll find places to stay. If we don't make it all the way to New York that's okay too. It's all about the journey, wherever we get to.

A one-way minivan rental will get us to the starting point - no airports, shuttles or bike boxes to fuss with. Whenever we're done, we'll rent another one to drive home. Cheap and easy.

We're so excited that our friend Mike Mandl is joining us for the trip. We've done all kinds of camping with Mike and his wife Lori since our boys were Cub Scouts, but this will be our first bike tour together. We'll miss Lori, but since she's still working and not into cycling, she's given her blessing.

Mike and Lori on a boat camping trip we did on Lake Powell a few years back.

On his first big tour down the Pacific coast Mike camped at one of our favorites - Samuel Taylor State Park in Marin County.

We have one other thing on the agenda that I think Dad would have loved - a sunset sailing and snorkeling tour in Key West. Other than that the docket is open. I'd be grateful for any thoughts on your favorite spots and sights we might see along the way.

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Kelly IniguezWhen is your depart?
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9 months ago

Janice BranhamKelly, we leave Friday for the 3-day drive to Key West and will start riding east on the Overseas Highway Tuesday March 26. As usual I'm working it down to the deadline to get this journal going.
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9 months ago

Bob DistelbergI can offer some comments on just a couple of areas.

I have vacationed in the area around Brunswick, GA (actually out on Jekyll Island), and explored that area by bike. That section through Brunswick is doable but will be a bit challenging, with narrow shoulders and inconveniently placed rumble strips on Rt 17.

We just drove up the entire length of the Outer Banks on a recent road trip, and I spent the entire time thinking how fun it would be to be doing it by bike (although not on the particular day I was driving since it was extremely cold and windy). We did encounter some minor flooding, since there had been recent heavy rains, as well as occasional drifting of sand across the road. It was just spectacular scenery though. Should be a great part of your trip. Keep an eye on the ferry schedules. The one from Cedar Island to Ocracoke only runs twice a day so you'll need to time that correctly.
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9 months ago

Keith Adams"Reading up on the East Coast Greenway, I came away with the idea that much of it is aspirational. It could be great someday but there's a fair amount of bellyaching in blogs and forums about busy shoulderless roads on the ECG route."

Well that's mildly alarming to me, since (as you already know) I've got plans to ride a chunk of the ECG next month. You'll learn how it goes in my Falls Line journal, of course.

Bon route to you!
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9 months ago

Janice BranhamTo Keith AdamsI wish for you only pleasant miles on empty roads. Will look forward to hearing all about it.
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9 months ago

Janice BranhamTo Bob DistelbergThanks for the tips Bob. We're hoping to score a campsite on Jekyll Island. I'm excited to hear your impressions of the Outer Banks and will study up on ferry schedules to be sure we don't miss the boat.
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9 months ago