Sailing Around Newport - Winging it up the Atlantic Coast - CycleBlaze

May 20, 2024

Sailing Around Newport

Barry left for Ten Speed Spokes this morning to get his wheel fixed. Mike is off adventuring somewhere. I'm taking my alone time at the Days Inn to work on trip logistics. This is the best hotel room of the trip in my opinion. It's up to date, has a fancy rain shower and feels like the biggest room we've booked. 

I'm camped out at the desk, studying maps, accommodations and reviews to fill in the plan for final five days of the trip. It's an iterative, time-consuming process, but then I tend to make a bigger production out of things than strictly necessary.

More than I expected from a Days Inn. The extra space is great for moving all the bikes in and out.
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Barry calls before noon with good news. He has two new spokes, a new tire and the wheel is trued, all for $72. Pretty good deal, and fast for walk-in service.  Hopefully this will get him to Provincetown. 

The sun is starting to break through the clouds when I rendez-vous with Barry at Easton's Beach for a little walk. From there we ride by Salve Regina University to hike part of the Cliff Walk. Designated as a National Recreation Trail, the Cliff Walk passes by palatial summer homes from Newport's gilded age at the turn of the century. 

Easton's Beach
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I'm struck by how clean the beaches have been on this trip. I'm used to more seaweed and dead marine life.
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On the Cliff Walk
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Rachael AndersonWhat a great looking walk!
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6 months ago
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Ochre Court is the second largest mansion in Newport. Completed in 1895 for New York real estate mogul Ogden Goelet, it was given to the Sisters of Mercy in 1947 and was the first building of Salve Regina University.
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Keith AdamsThat's quite the little summer cottage, isn't it?
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6 months ago
Karen PoretAs a graduate of (now shuttered) Mercy High School in San Francisco.. we used to say the fourth floor was where “the pool”was…to the freshmen..;+ ( the sisters lived up there) :0
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6 months ago
The rocky sections on the Cliff Walk are pretty fun
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Beechwood was built in 1852-53 in Italianate style for Daniel Parish, a New York City dry goods merchant. It's being transformed into an art museum.
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Digging these blue skies
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Karen PoretWith water to match :)
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6 months ago
The Breakers is the largest mansion in Newport. It was completed in 1895 for New York Railrood tycoon Cornelius Vanderbilt II. The 70-room palazzo was inpired by the 16th century Italian Renaissance palaces of Genoa and Turin.
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The Chinese Tea House was built for Alva Vanderbilt in 1912-1914. She hosted meetings here for her friends in the women's suffrage movement.
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Whew, that's enough opulence for one day. We ride on to the harbor for lunch at the Reef where I get my first lobster roll of the trip. While we're waiting for our food I wonder if there's any chance of a sail this afternoon. It doesn't take long to find a late afternoon sailing tour that leaves in just over an hour. I call Mike and he's up for it, no surprise.

On the way to the harbor
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Barry likes his flatbread. I only have eyes for the thing of beauty in front. Six ounces of cold lobster salad in a toasted bun. So good.
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Celebrating the sunny day
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We get separated on the ride to the wharf where the sailboat is moored so I text Barry the location. Shortly after he pulls up the directions his phone battery dies. Somehow we both manage to find our way there right at check in time. 

On the way to the wharf
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Ship ahoy! My split second timing luck is holding up.
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We board the Adirondack II,  an 80 foot pilot schooner that would have looked right at home cruising around Narragansett Bay 100 years ago. This early in the season the passenger manifest is short, just 10 people plus the crew on a ship that holds at least 50. The crew likes the small crowd too. They motor out of the harbor into the bay, raise the sails, and suddenly all is quiet as the ship glides through the water. We sail around the bay as the crew points out swanky waterfront estates and curiosities.

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Hoisting sails on a schooner sounds like a dreamy summer gig
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From a distance our ship looks a lot like that one
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A Viking ship made in Norway
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Clingstone, a mansion built on a rock in 1905 by J.S. Lovering Wharton of Philadelphia. The government had seized his land where he had a summer home to enlarge Fort Wetherill. This was his rebuke, "a house where noone can bother me."
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Castle Hill Inn, a top tier Newport resort
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Hammersmith Farm, the home of Jacqueline Bouvier's stepfather Hugh Auchincloss and the place where she spent her childhood summers. When she married Senator John F. Kennedy in 1953 the wedding reception was held here.
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Jackie O's playhouse on Hammersmith Farm. An elevator was put in for her dog who couldn't walk up the stairs.
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Sailing back to the harbor
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A gorgeous day in Newport, worth all the cloudy and rainy days we pedaled through the last week or so.
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Mike's photo of the sunset
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Today's ride: 13 miles (21 km)
Total: 2,364 miles (3,804 km)

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Rachael AndersonI’m glad you had such a great day!
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6 months ago
Rich FrasierAmazing pictures! I admire your last-minute scheduling prowess!
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6 months ago
Janice BranhamTo Rich FrasierI operate on the principle that if not for the last minute, nothing would get done.
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6 months ago