In Lewes DE - Winging it up the Atlantic Coast - CycleBlaze

May 11, 2024

In Lewes DE

We are lucky to be the first WarmShowers guests of the year at Ann and Del's comfortable home near the harbor in Lewes. They moved here from Maryland after retirement and found this place big enough for all their kids and grandkids to visit. 

Ann, a dietician by trade, now works at a bike shop and is taking full advantage of the employee deal for her budding cycle touring passion. She has one solo tour under her belt - a loop up to Rhode Island and back, and is eager for more.

After wrapping up a career in the intelligence service, Del recently earned a Master's degree in history from Missouri State University which happens to be Mike's alma mater. He did it all online, an unimaginable option 40 years ago when we were all in college.

We have a blessed free morning to get caught up on things so I settle in on the porch for some writing time. Ever since seeing Hemingway's writing studio in Key West at the start of our trip I have a better appreciation for the power of a good space. Then Barry, Mike and I head out on the bikes to explore the town.

Top tier writing studio, many steps up from the campground shower benches where I've written a few posts.
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Keith AdamsWrite when and where you are able. But yes, conditions and environment make a big difference in the quality of the result and the appeal of the actual process.
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5 months ago
Our first stop is the Saturday farmers market where we get a good start on dinner provisions with crab meat, asparagus and strawberries.
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We've missed azalea season at home. They're peaking here.
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From the market Barry and I ride to the Zwaanendael Museum in the historic district. It was built in 1931, 300 years after the first European settlement in Delaware was founded in 1631 by Dutch settlers. The first floor is filled with artifacts from the HMS DeBraak British warship that sank off the Delaware coast in 1798. Fortune-hunters searched the wreck in vain for gold on the ship. In the process they brought up a trove of artifacts that tell a story of life at sea and on land at that time.

Modeled after a building in Hoorn, Netherlands, the Zwaanendael Museum features Dutch elements like the stepped gable, carved stonework and decorated shutters.
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Model of HMS DeBraak
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On Shipcarpenter Street we walk through a campus of nine historic structures, including houses, a school, tavern, blacksmith shop, country store and a doctors office. All but one have been moved here from the area around Lewes by the historical society and are filled with furnishings of the time. 

Volunteers in period dress welcome us and tell the story of each building and life here during the 1700s and 1800s. Each month several hundred visitors come to the Tavern here for First Friday to imbibe traditional drinks of the 1800s.

Some of the buildings on the historic campus
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Bill, the barkeep at Sussex Tavern, crafts ales like Milk Punch, Grog and Sangaree on First Fridays. Grog was the most popular of its time, a mixture of rum, water, sugar and lime juice to fight scurvy.
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The Midway School, a one-room schoolhouse built in 1898, originally stood halfway between Lewes and Rehoboth.
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The blackboard in the Midway School is original; other furnishings are from the period when it was built.
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This reel was used to dry 1000-foot-long nets used to catch Menhaden, a foot long fish used for fertilizer and animal feed. Men ran on planks inside the reel to turn it and wind up the nets.
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Scott AndersonWhat a fantastic contraption. It’s wonderful visualizing it in use.
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6 months ago
Keith AdamsHuman-scale hamster wheel!
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5 months ago

For lunch I treat myself to local oysters at the Oyster House. Whatever I heard back in Virginia about oysters being out of season, it's not an issue here. The oysters are sweet and delicious. Then we ride a little more around the town and out to the little beach. Mike has gone on to Henlopen State Park for a beach walk. Sounds nice but I don't need any more miles. It's a rest day. 

Lots of fun shops and restaurants in downtown Lewes
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Looking at the harbor from the bridge up to the beach
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Savannah Beach in Lewes is plenty big enough for a little walk.
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Back at the house, Mike puts a delicious dinner together of crabcakes, cottage fries, asparagus, strawberries and garlic bread. Del has picked up a blueberry pie for dessert. We enjoy a fun evening talking about bike touring experiences and aspirations, kayaking, politics and retirement. We feel so fortunate that these good people have welcomed us into their home. 

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Today's ride: 6 miles (10 km)
Total: 1,940 miles (3,122 km)

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