The Last Leg: Tynemouth to Durham

September 13, 2022

The ferry ride was marked by a minor drama: a couple of hours out of IJmuiden, the intercom announced that we were going to turn around and head back to port so that a sick member of crew could receive medical assistance. We didn't, in fact, go all the way back to shore, but just far enough for the coastguard to come out, and for the invalid to be transferred from our behemoth to their tiny boat -- a process which, to my eyes, looked significantly scarier than any number of illnesses. But it seemed to be successful: the coastguard sped off back towards the Netherlands, and we did another u-turn and set out again towards the UK.

In spite of this, we were still bang on time when we chugged into the mouth of the Tyne the next morning.

Tynemouth Priory. A bit draughty these days, but still a useful landmark.

Disembarkation was again a bit slow, but in the end the cyclists and motorbikers (a handful of the former, a lot of the latter) were waved into the fresh air, welcomed (not terribly effusively, if I'm honest) back to the UK by the border person, and (the cyclists at least) pointed towards the cycle path by a much more cheerful customs person. (Cyclists get a great shortcut out of the Port of Tyne: through a hole in the fence, and straight onto the 'Hadrian's Way' cycle route.)

I was having slight twinges of conscience about having sort of told work I'd be back today, so thought I should take the more direct inland route back home -- less scenic than the seaside route, but with the silver lining of a trip through the wonderful cycle (and pedestrian) tunnel under the Tyne.

It's such a great tunnel (built in the 1950s; restored in the 2010s) that I'll even forgive the lack of apostrophes.

The half-way point of the tunnel: not actually the Durham county boundary any more (we lost some territory to Gateshead in the second half of the C20th; still a sore point...), but a step closer to home at least.

Other than a few half-raised flags, I didn't get the sense that the country was particularly deeply plunged into mourning. (All the QE2 commemorative biscuit tins had disappeared from the ferry duty-free shop, but I couldn't work out if that was because they'd been deemed Disrespectful, or because they'd been snapped up by memorabilia-hunters...) The weather was good, and plenty of people were out enjoying the sunshine. I thought I might as well join them -- work could wait another half hour, surely...

A sunny coffee stop in Washington. Bunting not at half mast!

Before very long, I was at the top of the last hill of the trip, and my final destination was just a freewheel away. Queens and kings might come and go, but the home of the Prince Bishops doesn't change much...

My bike bag made it back too. (Perhaps even in 47.5 hours...)

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Today's ride: 36 km (22 miles)
Total: 1,085 km (674 miles)

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Rich FrasierGreat trip and a great journal! You had some monster days on the bike. Very impressive. Thanks for keeping the journal - I enjoyed following along.
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2 years ago

Kathleen JonesWhat a great ride.
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2 years ago

Mike AylingThanks for a great journal!
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2 years ago

Jacquie GaudetI just read the whole thing today, having found it (again) when researching for a potential Alps trip next year. Very enjoyable!
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3 months ago

Polly LowTo Jacquie GaudetThank you! I hope your alpine trip goes well...
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3 months ago