To Pouilly en Auxois

June 11, 2024

We reach the highest point of the canal

Our hostess provided us with a tiny pizza so we didn’t starve after all

The breakfast this morning was skimpy even by the most basic French standards and we were off by 9. At first the locks were still very close together and we climbed 10 in the first 1,5km. After this however thing flattened off quite a bit and we were able to look across a wide expanse of countryside In the distance we could see little villages on the hills but there was little habitation beside the canals. The farms which looked very productive but must huge. The majority of them were cropping but also there were quite a number of cattle which in these area are charolais

Those villages that are along this stretch of the canal are largely depopulated eg in the little village we stayed last night there was a sign on a building that said it was a cafe/boulangerie saying it had closed in 2020. Was it Covid or was it just the depopulation of these rural areas. There was a sign saying that there was a mobile epicerie that came 4 times a week for very limited hours sometimes 2 hours but often only 1. Perhaps this explains why our bread for breakfast was pretty stale

And then we came to Pont Royal This is clearly a spot very popular with the boaties on the canal. The village is of course tiny but there were big signs out saying it was overt and lots of tables chairs and umbrellas. Over the canal we went and soon we were comfortably sitting beside the Maison de Canal drinking coffee and talking to the delightful owner. He has run restaurants all over the world and now in his retirement is happily at the Maison de Canal and what a fantastic job he is doing. He is a rugby fanatic and came out wearing an All Blacks jersey. We had been vaguely concerned about lunch and he produced a delicious looking sandwich for us to take with us

All song we were having to cross little bridges

Some of the little lock houses are so pretty

We reach Pouilly and this is the highest point of the canal. Here it disappears into a tunnel for 2.3km and we will join it there tomorrow

Pouilly is a lovely little town and on reaching it at midday it was full of people. There was on particularly enticing looking restaurant with bikes outside and lots of people eating inside and out. Yes we could eat there but there would be a 25minute wait. Not a problem as we couldnt book in till 2pm. First we sat and waited. Then someone brought us some water and fairly shortly after some knives and forks. A rather longer wait ‘would we like a drink’. Yes we would like a beer. In a while that arrived Then the next thing was a menu- we were getting closer. Some time later our order was taken and after a suitable pause the food arrived. I was feeling cold so had lasagne which was delicious and Ken a Caesar Salad. By the time we had finished it was time to check into the hotel - our time had been filled in nicely

The Hotel de Poste is great with a lovely big room, seemingly good wifi and plenty of power points. The draw back is the incredibly steep stairs with inadequate handrails so I think I had better stay put till breakfast time. We have food and wine

Today's ride: 33 km (20 miles)
Total: 316 km (196 miles)

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