Day 9: Back through Flagstaff, towards the Grand Canyon

May 11, 2003

Got up at 7 AM. Still cold in the shady canyon. I got on the road at 9 AM, beginning a steady 1000 foot climb to the rim of Oak Creek Canyon. Near the top I took a long break at the Oak Creek Canyon overlook (6500 feet elevation).

Steve apparently crashed his car off this cliff.

Switchbacks climbing out of Oak Creek canyon, up to the Mogollon plateau.

View from the Oak Creek Canyon overlook.

The distant red rocks at the opposite end of the canyon aren't visible from the overlook. I bought some small gifts from Native American vendors selling handicrafts there.

Then I continued on the last 12 forested miles to Flagstaff, gradually climbing to 7100 feet elevation at the airport turnoff where I started the trip. The last 2 miles to Flagstaff (6900 feet elevation) looked familiar, having ridden that road 8 days ago. The weather was sunny as usual, and by mid morning the temperature was in the 60's. I ate an early buffet lunch at a Sizzler restaurant on the south edge of Flagstaff. I rode through the Northern Arizona University campus and detoured a few blocks to look around sleepy downtown Flagstaff.

A striking mission-style stone church in Flagstaff.

Then I continued northwest on U.S. highway 180. Flagstaff seems like a very small town when biking through from south to north. I bought groceries on my way out of town and made phone calls to my wife and mother (it's Mother's Day). In Flagstaff I could frequently see the snow-capped San Francisco Peaks north of town. The view of the peaks gets much better as I pedal northwest from the city, going around the western flank of the peaks. It was Sunday afternoon. I saw many cyclists out for training rides with their fancy road bikes and fancy bike clothes. I saw very few cyclists elsewhere on this trip.

San Francisco peaks. 12,643-foot Mt. Humphreys is the highest peak in Arizona.

From the west I could see much more snow and I could more clearly distinguish the individual peaks such as Mt. Humphries which is the highest mountain in Arizona at 12,643 feet elevation.

The road climbs gradually through the forest for 15 miles to an un-named (but signed) crest at 8046 feet elevation-the highest elevation of the trip. I enjoyed seeing the changing views of San Francisco Peaks.

Most of the route is in Ponderosa Pine forest but some large Aspen groves appear near 8000 feet elevation.

Bare aspen trees at the flank of San Francisco Peaks.

After the 8046 foot crest is a steep 500 foot descent followed by 30 miles of extremely straight gradual downhill where I pedaled 22 mph despite a slight headwind. I was riding straight into the setting sun and was glad to have a big carbon fiber visor on my helmet. The vegetation gradually changes from Pinon/Juniper to high desert scrub.

I arrived at the 'town' of Valle (5990 feet elevation) 10 minutes before sunset. The town consists of two motels, two restaurants, two gas stations, and a Flintstones Campground. I got a site at the campground. Only one other campsite was occupied, and the campground was in a general state of disrepair. I was told to use the women's bathroom/shower because the lights don't work in the men's side. But at least they had showers and I was also able to charge my digital camera batteries at a nearby RV site. The campsite is close to the highway but there was very little traffic after dark. It wasn't too bad. Just a place to sleep on my way to the Grand Canyon, 30 miles ahead.

I thought this would be a boring travel day but it turned out to be fairly interesting with the parting views of Oak Creek Canyon and the changing views while riding around the flank of San Francisco Peaks. Once again the weather was perfect - sunny all day with a high of about 70F.

Distance: 71.3 miles (114.1 km)

Climbing: 3320 feet (1013 m)

Average Speed: 11.9 mph (19.0 km/h)

Maximum Speed: 41.9 mph (67.0 km/h)

Hiking: none

Today's ride: 71 miles (114 km)
Total: 408 miles (657 km)

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