Dickleburg to Needham Market

May 21, 2024

through Eye and Stowmarket

It's marmalade on toast for breakfast, washed down with a few cups of coffee while sat at a pine table in Pam and Dave's kitchen-diner.

Before I leave, Dave shows me around his workshop and the pieces of glass he's recently been commissioned to make. He uses a complicated process in which he first makes a wax model, then casts it in plaster so he can use the mould. After the wax is melted out, granular glass is placed inside and it's then heated in a kiln. It's a long process, so each unique piece is not cheap.

It's about 10:00 when they wave me off. Dave thinks I'll be in Stowmarket in a couple of hours, but I know it'll take me most of the day. It may only be around 30km away, but there are various stops to make for photos and I tend to dawdle along in a beeline. There's no rush.

Although the sky's overcast, it feels warm and humid. A jacket isn't needed as I ride along the lane out of Dickleburg, which is quiet and goes in a series of turns for a couple of kilometres south to reach the busy A143. There's a footpath on the other side and thankfully it's not very far away.

The path is behind a wide metal gate that's padlocked and once over that, a grassy track looks to head nowhere in particular. I just hope it doesn't become too overgrown once it starts dropping down a slight incline.

There's another gate to negotiate and a small dyke that has some planks over it. My bike then bounces along beside a ploughed field before there's a stile to climb over. The path is basically invisible as I make my way across a field of rough grass and thistles to a wooden footbridge with swing gates at either end. These make it a hassle and is compounded by the high handrails being too close together for my wide handlebars. Once on the other side, tall nettles have to be dodged and when I'm past all these, the track rises slightly over a simple bridge and becomes rideable concrete. I've not seen a soul so far and I'm sweating.

The rough path spits me out on the edge of Hoxne. It seems to have taken ages to get here, but I've only covered around 5km. I need a break.

There's a sign outside the post office in Hoxne saying it's also a tea room, so I go in. The woman says it's closed up and I get the impression this is a post-Covid hangover. She tells me the pub just down the street does food, but reckon I'll survive until I find a nice cafe.

Deserted country lanes keep taking me south. Eventually I make a right onto one heading west towards a village called Eye that becomes a muddy track and after taking a self-timed shot, I notice my back knobbly tyre is comletely flat.

It's covered in mud, making it an unpleasant job removing the thing once I get to a spot where I can lean my bike against a fence. A patch gets fitted and it's pumped up and it's not more than a kilometre down the B1117 to Eye.

Muddy track where my back tyre punctures

I find a Coop store in Eye and get a sandwich, a bottle of juice and a chocolate bar as a £5 deal and sit on a raised concrete section outside and wonder what to do next. A coffee would be nice and as luck would have it around the corner there's a cafe called Coffeye and I treat myself to a brownie while there. It feels like it's been a hard day. Maybe it's the humidity.

I make my way out of Eye and find a rough track that cuts out some road. It takes me up to a farm, but then disappears. Maybe there's a grassy path like earlier somewhere around - but one is enough for today, thanks.

Not far away dark clouds theaten serious rain, with thunder getting closer, and as I return down the track towards Eye, spots start falling. I make a dash to find somewhere to shelter.

Near the coffee shop is a small yard with an area that's sheltered and I wedge myself under the overhang as rain pings off the nearby road. It's an absolute downpour for about 30 minutes.

I sit in a cafe in Eye called Cafeye and have this brownie

This track south of Eye takes me nowhere, so I return

Google Maps shows the B road going roughly east of Eye is my best bet. I can get off it at a junction not too far away and continue south on country lanes that link small villages as originally intended. It's a minor detour.

The problem is the torrential rain has made the B1117 something of a stream and the water is flowing down towards Eye. The flow of traffic that passes by makes a wave - it's nice that drivers are courteous and allow me to ride down the centre of the road, where it's less deep. I just wish I had mudguards, as my shoes are getting soaked.

One place I plan to visit is a church on the west side of the very busy A140, so I make a right and cross over the artery, then veer south towards the village of Thornham Magna.

The St Mary Magdalene Church looks to be typical of old churches, but this one has some nice windows made by William Morris's company. Its just on the northern edge of the village and has a gravel path leading up to it and there's a sign saying the church is open.

On a lane going south after just turning off the B1117, which was like a stream

Detail to a Morris & Co window in St Mary Magdalene Church, Thornham Magna

Morris & Co window, St Mary Magdalene Church in Thornham Magna

I put my raincoat back on when I leave the church as it keeps the back of my shirt clean and dry. After crossing straight over the A140, I soon turn south again, riding towards a place called Wetheringsett. It's just a village.

The weather doesn't improve, with drizzle falling and making photography something that seems like too much trouble. I just pedal away and make my way towards Stowmarket, a town that has just one hotel on its south side.

Former post office in the village of Wetheringsett

The A1120 then the B1115 take me into the town. It's not great cycling, but by now my focus is to just find a room and get dry. Research tells me there's a riverside path through Stowmarket and I get on that and ride along wondering if it's a good choice. It's pretty overgrown and muddy.

Eventually I get to the hotel. There are some cars parked outside, but it looks a bit forlorn. My bike gets left outside reception and the guy behind the desk says it's no longer run as a hotel, but is now housing homeless. He tells me the nearest hotel is The Limes. It's south down the B1113 in Needham Market.

Rain comes down heavier as I ride there. There's a narrow footpath to ride along, but again it's overgrown and rough in places. Signs say it's a cycle route. Give me a break. It's become an ordeal.

The room rate in The Limes is more than it should be but I flash my plastic and leave my bike at the bike of the hotel, in a passage to the car park. It should be OK. Once I've showered, I hose down my panniers and raincape as they're all quite grimey.

The hotel has a bar and serves food, but not wanting to hand over more cash, I opt to walk down to an Indian restaurant near the train station, about fibve minutes' away, and after a curry, I pop in a pub nearby called The Swan for a pint. It's still drizzing as I walk back to The Limes.

Today's ride: 56 km (35 miles)
Total: 554 km (344 miles)

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