Mossburn to Eglinton Campground.

February 25, 2025

Tough start turns to a great day riding through Te Anau and halfway to Milford Sounds.

Last night as I was plotting my next day I looked at the forecast. I trust my weather app as it’s been right so many times. It said 1-3 mm of rain at 8, 9 and then tapered off to sunshine starting at 10 AM. I figured a bit of light rain no big deal.

Cold, huddled under a tree with memories of New Mexico. Also contemplating my decision to ride.

I was leaving the comfortable cabin with temperature control. It was so exciting to stand up and spread myself out over the entire inside of the place. I even did laundry hoping it would air dry overnight

Sheep herding #3. Does this happen by car!?

I was up at my usual 6 AM and the tires were moving by 7. It was barely light but I was starting the day on 60 km of cycle path away from vehicles. I got going with my rain coat on and the sky opened up almost immediately. Soon I was riding through sideways rain with a healthy wind. It wasn’t pleasant but I figured it wouldn’t last. I was with sweating or getting a lot of rain down my back because it wasn’t long and the chill set in. I stopped and threw on my merino shirt on top of my riding hoodie, pulled both hoods over my ears under my helmet, and kept going.

After an hour I was completely drenched and there’s no way that was 3 mm of rain. I was starting to question my decision. And sitting in that cabin started to feel like a dream world. But, the decision was made and nothing I could do but push forward and hope the forecast was right. I started dreaming of the coffee hut on route advertised by friends.

By 10 I was through that section of the cycle path and onto gravel roads. I had my 3rd encounter with a herd of sheep. This time there were hundreds of them coming towards me on the road. I shot a video and sent it to my kids. I got a response. “They look so fluffy I want to hug one.” Me too. I responded “I think it would be like catching a duck.” And then a photo pops up of my daughter holding a duck. “Easy!”

I rode along on my side of the road and they veered off the other side and soon I was past them all. By about 60 km I made it to the coffee stop which was a conventional camping trailer on someone’s property but outfitted as a coffee shop. And it was bustling with about 15 people already served and 7 in line. I crushed some high calorie food and a coffee. That hit the spot and while it was still dark sky it was changing fast. I was on the highway by this time.

Tough day for the water bottles. The down tube one got ‘shat’ on.

The one one the fork fell off and I ran over it crushing the lid. And yes I have a Velcro strap on it but I guess with all the bumps it gave way.

The highway section was about 10 km. And while I wouldn’t say it was pleasant I pushed through it fast and was soon off on a quieter paved road and then back onto gravel roads. I knew it was about 90 km to Te Anau. Funny, at one point I saw a sign saying 47 km there but then I rode about 15 km and the next sign said 42 km. Fast math says that’s wonky but the route doesn’t take a straight line like a highway. It takes you on the most quiet roads possible despite adding kilometres. Because that’s the point. Enjoyment of the journey.

As I was getting closer I veered off gravel onto pavement for about 300 m and then at first missed the cycle path. I doubled back quickly and suddenly I was in a dark forest. It was such a contrast. I rode through there and came on another biker going the other way. I was cautious and on the brakes. He was a more nervous rider and jumped off and apologized. It was no one’s fault and we weren’t close to a collision but it startled him.

The cycle path through the forest was really great and it likely lasted 15 km dropping me right into Te Anau by their spectacular lake scenery. In town I decided I need to find a shuttle. I struck out on Bruce’s suggestion but googled and found a spot 500 m from my location. Bingo! I went there and was pleased to book a return tomorrow at 5 pm after confirming good weather. Then I hit the 4-Square and ate lunch on a bench. More rice and beans cold and about 3 sandwiches with Nutella. Is a sandwich a sandwich with only one topping. This was more about getting calories into my body.

Back on the bike at 2 with the goal to get as close to Milford Sounds as my body would allow. I loved the riding through and out of town. All cycle path along the lake. Beautiful! And then eventually after maybe another 8 km I was on the highway but knowing this was a good time as I was running counter to everyone else. Once I started on the highway I could not believe how easy it was to pedal. I mean this morning after rain the cycle paths were soft and riding was slow. By comparison this was lightening fast and I didn’t have to contend with much wind.

The Garmin said 60 km for the next turn so mentally I thought great if I can knock that out I’ll be about 70 km from Milford Sounds.

The riding turned out to be very good. Traffic was light on my side. And predictably I saw maybe 40 buses going the other way. As I kept plugging the scenery just kept getting better and better and better. And I’m not even to the mind blowing stuff yet. At one point I was rolling down a nice hill with no traffic and I was giddy with what I was seeing. Spectacular! A grassland that looked like a wheat field with the backdrop of beautiful mountains.

I got past the 60 km point and pulled out my camping app. I found a potential spot just another 30 minutes of riding so I kept going. I almost rode past it and the sign said “no vacancy” but fortunately with a tent they make exceptions so I’m all set up with the backdrop of mountains.

Tomorrow I have 60 km and some hill to climb to reach the end of the Sounds to Sounds at Milford Sound. I’m pretty excited about both the scenery and this accomplishment.

Highlights:

-tough start but I persevered

-coffee, snacks at the camper coffee spot

-riding into and around Te Anau was really great

-fast riding for a good stretch of the Milford highway

-logging another really big ride

-beautiful scenery on the way to Milford Sounds

-finding a campground and it’s sunny

Distance: 164 km and 1363 m elevation gained

Today's ride: 164 km (102 miles)
Total: 2,962 km (1,839 miles)

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Bruce RichardsGreat effort to get to Eglington. There is a high chance of meeting adverse weather somewhere between Mossburn and Milford. A short ride tomorrow with a good climb to the Homer tunnel. You will be in bikers paradise from there to Milford. Long wait for the bus. It will be worth it when you look out the window at the climb you are not doing. If it's in the right direction for you, the track you were on into Te Anau goes on to Manapouri. Great ride.
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6 days ago

Andrew RichardTo Bruce RichardsThanks! Tough start but great finish. I am very excited about the scenery. It was really great getting here! And yes, I’ll have loads of time but I prefer that to being on the road. There are a few sections with railings and minimal shoulder. Was happy to have almost zero traffic.
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6 days ago