March 8, 2025
Lake Rotoroa to Nelson.
I slept in this morning until 7:30. It was glorious. One of my favourite luxuries on this trip is a nice set of ear plugs and a very comfortable eye mask. I slap on both most nights and I have no idea if there’s annoying human lights and sounds nearby.
I ate cold oatmeal because no stove. Still a choice I’m endorsing at least with all these luxury campgrounds with kitchens. Last night was a $10 DOC night so no amenities other than the flush toilets. I mean I could have gone swimming in the warm lake but that would involve exposing my skin to the thousands of hungry for blood sand flies.
I still got on my bike by 8:30 and rode about 75 m before I saw a sign for coffee, followed by an open sign at the backpacker’s place. I slammed on the brakes and turned left to a treat of a delicious muffin and a coffee served in a press this time. The lady working out of her home was kind and the place was super inviting as well. She handed me a picture book of the Great Taste Trail that I flipped through until it started raining. I finished my coffee and decided I’d ride in the rain. It was more like almost riding in heavy fog with small droplets but it was rain nonetheless and I got wet again. I mean, I can’t be unhappy with the weather on my trip when locals so I’ve been extremely lucky. I’ve only gotten soaked 3 times and I’ve never taken a day off for the weather.
The first 10 km was on quiet side roads and it was nice for what I could see through the rain. Then I hung a right back onto the highway. Oh highway, how could I be made at you!? Oh, now I remember. You are on constant alert for traffic. The highway section was short and I was back on a great gravel section and the rain stopped completely so that I could peel the rain coat and enjoy mostly overcast sky and maybe 14 C. I met some riders along the way from Indiana. I stopped to talk to them as they were coming down a hill. They were rocking the mirror in the helmet. I have never considered having one of those until this trip. It would just be nice to know when traffic is coming as there’s often wind filling your ears and you don’t know if it’s one car, truck, RV, or sheep truck. They said they loved them so I grabbed the company name and continued.
Soon I was onto a nice paved section of quiet countryside roads and I spotted a familiar crop. Hops! A brewmaster knows hops and I spent 5 days touring hop fields in my young career apprenticing to become a brewmaster. That tour past the fields brought back a lot of great memories for me. But, that was then and this is now and I hardly drink for health reasons. I could no longer live that life and that’s fine. It was fun back then.
I got to Tapawera soon afterwards and although I started later today I’d already ridden 60 km and it was just noon. I spotted two bikepacking bikes outside so I knew friends were close by. I went inside and grabbed two bananas, ginger beer and a sleeve of crackers for the road. Inside I didn’t see any bikers so I walked around and found them sitting on a bike rack so I joined them and moments later 5 other riders showed up (all doing the brevet). We swapped stories and I checked out their gear as well. Five riders were from Nelson and they were giddy about just ditching their tents at home and they’d be finding other accommodations. They also told me that the slog after Nelson is terrible going North which I knew from Bruce. They suggested taking the road along the coast and then rejoin the trail later so that’s what I’ll do when I’m headed to Picton. They all said they slid down it and it was somewhat terrifying on a gravel bike.
Right beside the 4-Square the Great Taste Trail started as part of the TA so I jumped on it for the rest of the ride to Nelson. It was great, mostly off road but a lot alongside the road. It made me think why can’t we have more of these trails everywhere. For example on our Gulf Islands there could be an incredible experience of riding and linking all the Islands up off road. Of course, I’m not naive and I know this takes a tremendous effort but it sure would be incredible and drive a lot of tourism dollars.
It wasn’t far from Tappewera to the first cafe/restaurant maybe 30 minutes down the trail at Kohatu. I pulled in there for lunch of burger and fries and a bit of relaxing before heading back out. The temperature in the afternoon was ideal where it maybe topped out at 18-19 C and I was flying along the trail. While at the restaurant and on WIFI I downloaded some podcasts. It’s well documented from my first journal that I’m a huge Lael Wilcox fan. She had posted to her around the world podcast about her Alaska Iditarod ride; 350 km of fat bike riding in extreme cold over snow, frozen/unfrozen rivers and lakes. It sounds positively insane and right up her alley. She finished first among ladies and 5th overall challenging the record which takes a perfect weather conditions to challenge.
Soon I was at the Spooners Tunnel which is the longest rail tunnel in New Zealand. I arrived to find 4 kids roll out of it without lights which is impressive due to the length. Carrots! I flicked on my headlight and enjoyed the cool ride through which was first slightly upjill and then all downhill exiting the tunnel and for the next 5 kilometres. That part was a lot of fun with a nice grade where you could really lean into the pedals with full confidence in the surface.
I met a 75 YO rider in Wakefield who flew into Nelson and was planning to ride to Queenstown. He had all the gear but said he was tired and ready to stop. He’s the third person I’ve met that put my age much younger so I’ll take it! I give credit to my sunglasses :)
The rest of the ride was enjoyable if not that incredibly scenic. I came into Nelson to find that it’s a big city. I came to the sign but then there was still another 12 km into town first by a very busy highway. There were two options so I opted for the old rail trail and that took me into town and away from the noise which was ideal. There I found the cycling infrastructure to be similar to Victoria with cuts of bike lanes through subdivisions. The only downside is multiple stops for roads where in Victoria bikes get the right of way.
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In town I made my way to the Top 10 Holiday park to find it disappointing with a sliver of grass and high cost. I decided I’d get groceries and then try the one by the beach instead and that ended up being a great decision. The location is right on the water. At present it’s pouring rain but I’m under cover charging devices and enjoying the amenities.
Tomorrow the weather looks good enough to do the Coppermine Trail. My plan is to set up here for 2 nights. I’ll leave the majority of my gear and ride with a light bike. The trail is 38 km long and meant to be done in a day. It has 850 m of climbing which is fine and then a nice descent where I’ll walk some if necessary; the guys from Nelson thought I’d be fine on a gravel bike.
Then the next day I’ll ride the Great Taste Trail counterclockwise and spend one night someplace before likely returning back here for another night. I need to think about my flights home. I’ve zoomed around faster than planned which means I either go someplace else I haven’t seen or head back a bit early. I’ll check in with the booking service and see what’s possible.
Highlights:
-riders I met today were super friendly and fun
-gravel and road riding before Tappewera was very good
-Great Taste Trail is nice, not blow your mind riding but good
Distance: 135 km and 642 m elevation gain
Today's ride: 135 km (84 miles)
Total: 4,243 km (2,635 miles)
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