March 5, 2025
Lake Ianthe to Greymouth.
The Wilderness Trail delivers!
What a day!
I got up without an alarm about the same time. The air was wet and my tent felt like it weighed double it was so wet taking it down. A bit of a cold start but not painfully cold. I just wore my neoprene MTB gloves and that was good enough. The ride started on the highway but I was soon off on gravel and my happy place. That was enough riding on highway already.
The gravel was along the ocean but the view was mostly protected by farm land. It wasn’t long and I was in a small town called Ross. I spotted a convenience store advertising coffee. And here’s a big difference between being here or at home. Behind the counter he had a proper coffee machine and made me a good flat white coffee that I enjoyed with a big piece of chocolate cake. I know that’s random for 9:30 in the morning but whatever I need calories and it was good!
While eating a guy stopped by to ask what I was up to. He left saying “I think you are bat shit crazy.” Okay, thanks for the confirmation. I was wondering about myself until this observation.
Continuing on I jumped back on the highway for a short stretch and then off onto a quieter paved section and then a turn onto the Wilderness Trail. I almost missed the turn but another rider was coming out so we chatted for a bit about the trail and his ride this far. Then I got started and it felt so good to be back in the forest…jungle…or bush whichever you prefer. I was just so freaking happy to be rolling through some singletrack surrounded by vegetation and sounds that weren’t cars.
This section of the trail wasn’t that long, maybe 15 km but it was great with singletrack, boardwalk and some peekaboo views out over the vegetation and out to the ocean as well.
Soon I arrived into Hokitika. Funny, last time I was in Greymouth my daughter texted me where he roommates relatives live in New Zealand. I’d forgotten the name since I didn’t get there but I scanned back in my messages and I arrived. I said I’d wave but unfortunately not meet them. At first following the trail I’d miss the town so I doubled back and rode through stopping at a great cafe for another breakfast and coffee. The town was really nice and I didn’t even check out the waterfront portion (right on the ocean!).
I had a goal in mind. I’d ridden 57 km and it was 11.30 and I wanted to ride the entire Wilderness Trail and close to 155 km so I needed to get going. When you ride cycle trail it’s never as fast as sealed road or even gravel roads. I figured if I could average 15 km/hr I might get it done.
I started riding and soon I came on to two bikers turning out where I was turning. We stopped to talk and they were super friendly. We were discussing our routes and it was hilarious because the one guy did almost exactly what I did on the S2S except he rode through Hanmer and up the hill to do Rainbow only to realize he needed groceries and went all the way back down. They must have been a painful mistake as that climb was 500 m!
After chatting for about 10 minutes he says you are Canadian right! Yes! I honestly was so happy to meet a Canadian. He’s only the 3rd person thus far (one couple on the Queenstown trail). We had a really great time talking Queen’s engineering, his plans to move west which I of course encouraged. His riding mate Alex was from Switzerland and he was fun too. I should have grabbed a picture with all 3 of us. They were so much fun and great energy!
We said goodbye and I was into a really nice stretch with great shade and a canal running along it which I learned goes all the way back to gold panning days. It was fast moving and said “no swimming, drowning risk.” Okay, I made note not to fall in. I met a lot of riders coming the other way and you had to be aware because there was barely room to pass each other.
The trail would be in the forest and then pop out occasionally for a gravel road section, then back to trail. After finishing a gravel road section I was crossing over a big river bridge and gazing over at the mountains and wondering how am I getting through that without some major climbing!
| Heart | 3 | Comment | 2 | Link |
https://www.inaturalist.org/taxa/132631-Cyathea/browse_photos?place_id=6803
1 month ago
The trail turned into the mountains and started on some amazingly gentle switchbacks that were set into the most amazing scenery. It was part pasture, part beautiful lawn, and just stunning with the mountains in the backdrop. I made good time on that climb because it was easy compared to most things I’ve done this far.
Back in the forest it wasn’t long before I was at the apex and just shy of halfway through the trail. I talked to a guy who was laid down resting and then got going again knowing the elevation profile was strongly in my favour. The riding was fabulous for the next bit. In some ways it reminded me of the Timber trail because of the descent and beautiful vegetation and sounds. There were numerous times where I was near the streams and I drank the water that was tea coloured from all the tannins. It tasted good and it’s probably good for you
The trail kept popping in and out of the forest with some gravel, some double track, and great views past a couple of lakes.
Eventually at about 30 km left I came into another town called Kumara. I stopped for an ice cream but the place was closed so I just kept going. I hit a nice double wide section where I really put the effort in and I was flying!
Unfortunately, the end of the trail follows highway 6 for a bit. So glad I wasn’t on it. It was a stark negative feeling to be around that noise after being in the forest immersed in nature for the majority of the day. They have done a great job with this section though with separate lanes over 2 bridges and taking you under the road to cross another bridge. Very impressive work!
The trail eventually got completely away from the highway and followed the ocean which was fantastic. I looked at my camping app and found it wasn’t far to a Holiday Park so I made that my goal. I arrived to find it was really nice. I set up camp about 100 feet from the ocean with a natural wind block from the vegetation. Tomorrow morning I’ll have to go for a short walk at the ocean. I’m so much more impressed with Greymouth my second time through. The other part wasn’t nearly as nice as this stretch.
Tonight I did laundry and now I finally have dry clothes 2 days after getting drenched going over the Haast Pass. It feels so civilized!
Highlights:
-getting back on gravel to Ross
-breakfast and quick tour of Hokitika
-The Wilderness Trail was fabulous!
-Another big ride
-Meeting the other Canadian and Alex from Switzerland
Distance: 152 km and 1538 m elevation gain
Today's ride: 152 km (94 miles)
Total: 3,864 km (2,400 miles)
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1 month ago
1 month ago