Eketahuna to Wellington

February 8, 2025

Thank you North Island!

Oh boy, what a day! Where to start? At the beginning I suppose. I woke up early at the Emetahuna club. This stay was somewhat reminiscent of the stay we had behind a pub on the Great Divide but much more upscale. I was sleeping behind their building but they had a big party so I was worried that would keep me up half the night. I threw in ear plugs and didn’t have any problem.

The morning was cool and it started on nice paved country roads again. Those turned to gravel for about 15 km but the climbing was modest and I made really great time arriving in Masterton (42 km) before 9 and in time for another breakfast.

I found a cafe that would serve a nice breakfast and grabbed a table outside. I ordered and then the Amazing Race New Zealand style started. I spot Chris from Mosley’s campground rolling towards me. He had a big smile and I was so surprised and happy too. He laughs and says “yeah, I figured I might pass you and then I knew you would catch me.” He took the bus all the way from Whanganui to Masterton skipping over 350 km.

We had fun chatting about our next plans and then I headed out quickly to a bank machine and then out of town. I’m getting quite good getting around now on the other side. It still takes more active thought.

Back on the trail I had the next goal in mind of reaching Martinborough by noon if possible. I didn’t care how long it took but looking at the distance it seemed possible. The riding was nice. Basically just all paved roads and very easy climbing. I passed several cyclists on the route and chatted with a couple doing a tube repair. I asked them where the hills were located and they laughed.

I made Masterton (49 km) at 11:50 and basically just putted through town filling up my water at a bike rental shop.

Back on the road and headed to Featherston. That was on only 15 km so I was there quickly, stopped under a tree and talked to my parents. Snow back home in Vancouver…our once annual. Oh, just 35 C here!

That break was short and quite the meal. I ate wraps with peanut butter and dates. It’s actually a good combination.

Rolling again down another paved road with a cycle parallel. I kept switching between because there was almost no traffic and the surface wasn’t great at times.

Soon I was headed for the Remitaka Cycle Trail. When I got to the trailhead it was blistering hot and the trail had a 500 m climb to come. I looked around and everyone looked beat. I started on the climbing and it was difficult going. It wasn’t any different from other climbs but the heat was really something. I stopped at a stream and topped up my water and took breathers along the route.

It’s a really a beautiful route. It’s an old rail trail but much steeper than a normal rail trail with grades of 8-9% at times. It has really epic views and some amazing tunnels where you need lights to get through them. There was one really long one that must have been 400-500 m long. The tunnels were natural air conditioning so I hung out at the start and end for a while to cool off.

I eventually reached the summit. It said about 1.5 hours but I think I made it in about 50 minutes of tough and prolonged climbing. There was really not let up at all.

This sign picture is for Peter. He entertained me the whole Divide with facts about almost anything.

After reached the summit the ride down the other side was fantastic. It was wider than on the way up and it included several green tunnels and eventually was running right beside a river. At the bottom of the trail I stopped at the bike rental place and drank a large can of juice in moments. It is so satisfying to drink sugar when you ride hard.

By this time it was about 3:30 so I kept riding. I found the Remutka Cycle Trail (aka the Hutt River trail). This trail again was fantastic going along a river and bending around some urban landscapes. I lost the trail a couple times but quickly found my way again. I wasn’t really looking at the guidebook much about the distances. I just kept riding and the next time I checked Petone (close to Wellington) seemed possible.

Another rider on Facebook suggested that I skip the riding from Petone to Wellington in favour of the train. That sounded like a good idea so I veered off the trail excited to load my bike on a train the rest of the way. I got to the train station to find it mostly deserted. I talked to some girls waiting and they said the train comes every 30 minutes. Then I went inside and a guy said that it doesn’t run weekends and try the bus. Out to the bus and talk to a driver and he says next bus in 30 but our bike racks are all out of service. What!?

So, left with no other options I searched back to find the route. It’s a bit of an urban nightmare with fences blocking things, a highway running through it, and generally not appealing. Eventually I was back headed to Wellington and the trail was much better than advertised. I was flying down it and got to Wellington at about 7 pm.

I’ve been super fortunate that writing here means I have a bird on my shoulder who has done the trail and keeps feeding me great information. I tried one hotel and was shut out but found one and am grateful for a shower and a bed. I loaded up on fantastic Vietnamese food and I’ll crash soon and hopefully be on an early ferry to the South Island.

I had a fantastic time on the North Island. I exceeded all my expectations regarding pace. And yes, I went fast but that’s a bit my style. I’m not a good relaxer. Probably never find me on a beach for long. I’m restless and like moving.

The people along the way were great (riders, restaurants, cafes, campgrounds etc.)

Distance: 196 km and 1674 m elevation gain

Highlights:

-early morning riding is my favourite

-breakfast with Chris

-rail trail despite the climb

-a bed tonight

North Island Stats (not including the day I arrived):

9 days Auckland to Wellington

1147 km (143 km per day average)

15,063 m (1883 m per day average)

Today's ride: 196 km (122 miles)
Total: 1,205 km (748 miles)

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Carolyn van HoeveWow!
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