February 26, 2025
Eglington Valley to Milford Sounds
Finishing the Sounds to Sounds Route.
I had 57 km to go this morning which is nothing in comparison to other rides. It was cold overnight with really dense cold air. I had to add layers through the night to stay warm enough in my summer sleeping bag. On the road just after 7 with every light flashing (2 red lights on the rear bag, headlight, flashing vest).
| Heart | 2 | Comment | 0 | Link |
The start of the ride was easy and being low clouds in places it wasn’t quite as scenic but still very nice. I was layered and had to peel the coat at one point or risk being soaked underneath. That’s always the risk in the mountains. You exert yourself and sweat and then stop moving or descend and you are suddenly freezing cold.
As I continued the scenery started to get stunning again with majestic peaks that were covered most of the way up with dark green vegetation. Much different than our mountain vegetation.
It’s hard to write this post without it being tainted with the stress of riding this road. For the most part it was excellent. I was just out there on my own pedalling some of the most incredible scenery you’ve ever seen. And then about 7 to 9 cars would all pass in succession and then things would return to peace.
| Heart | 0 | Comment | 0 | Link |
It had a fair bit of climbing which by itself without traffic is no big deal. The problem is there are curves and then occasional times where there’s two-way traffic. I had 4 cars pass. The first gave me a good birth and then he ended up in the other lane and got a huge horn.
| Heart | 4 | Comment | 2 | Link |
5 days ago
Then later as I’m on the hill I hear traffic and I can hear them slow down and I’m climbing. Then they pass and the mirror of the camper almost clipped my right shoulder. It’s hard to know how close but scared me into yelling and waving and eventually running off the road into the gutter. And then get passed by the 3 cars trailing him.
I still had another 300 m to climb to get to the tunnel and unfortunately when something like that happens your stress levels go sky high as cortisol is released into your bloodstream. It doesn’t go away for a long time and writing this almost 2 hours later I can still feel it.
| Heart | 4 | Comment | 4 | Link |
I said I’d keep this real. It was some of the most incredible scenery I’ve ever seen but that road is not designed with bikes in mind. I wouldn’t do it again. And I’m happy to load my bike on a bus and not climb the 1000 m back out.
When I approach the tunnel I had a small camper van pass too close and then stop at the red light. I was so hot that I nearly unloaded on the driver. Instead I just ignored them when they all jumped out of the vehicle completely oblivious.
There were so many drivers that were fabulous. So many people gave me an entire lane.
I think my rant will end here. My normal biology is returning and the sun feels good sitting here drinking a coffee.
I finished the Sounds to Sounds. It was an incredible journey that was really special. It was difficult in spurts but mostly it was just incredible riding through beautiful scenery with perfect temperatures, and a holiday park and 4-Square seeming around every corner. There were 3 or 4 of New Zealand’s Great rides included in the mix for good measure.
I loved it!
I spent the rest of the afternoon on a few short walks and sitting by the water enjoying the fabulous view. The shuttle home was a big van with seating for 16. I was at first disappointed by the bike rack but I fastened everything tight and just hoped for the best and that all worked out fine.
Now I’m at a Holiday Park in Te Anau contemplating what’s next. I’m feeling a bit scrambled after being on the bike all day most days and not making many logistical decisions. Challenges for tomorrow I guess :)
Highlights:
-incredible scenery
-the tunnel was very unique
-Milford Sound was beautiful but sort of commercialized as well
Distance: 56 km and 1007 m
Today's ride: 56 km (35 miles)
Total: 3,018 km (1,874 miles)
| Rate this entry's writing | Heart | 8 |
| Comment on this entry | Comment | 4 |
Good work keeping your cool when provoked by inattentive drivers. I might not have been so controlled. As their behaviour implied, often the drivers don't intend to scare you. They just don't really "see" you. As in "see you and then move to avoid you".
One of the great things about riding here in France is that drivers are way more used to seeing cyclists on the roads. And the odds are good that the driver has a family member who cycles. So they really do "see" you in the good way. Bad experiences with close passes have been very, very rare for me over the past 10 years of cycling here.
I could never do the riding you've put in on this trip, but I've really enjoyed seeing it through your eyes. Thanks for keeping this blog!
5 days ago
Your message was well crafted. That’s exactly what this situation entails.
The first problem is the road has no shoulder. There’s a white line and then either rock or ditch. The drivers have the option to sit behind as you describe but in this case the driver slowed down and didn’t wait long enough. He then passed me not realizing the width of his rented camper. It wasn’t malicious. Just a combination of the road, his inexperience, and impatience.
I want to ride in Europe and get that will likely happen in the future.
Thanks again for reading and adding a thoughtful comment.
5 days ago
5 days ago
Have a great trip with your mate!
5 days ago