Arrowtown to Makarora.

March 2, 2025

Through Wanaka and Lake Hawea.

Last night was enjoyable with my camping mates Jade and Ben. Funny when we first met at the reception Ben and I started talking and soon exchanged information about where we lived. He’s from Alaska and Jade is a Kiwi from the North Island. He quickly interjects “sorry about our country.” I smiled and said we continued to chat about it. Unfortunately, he just lost his job, as one of the over 300,000 other workers cut in government positions.

While preparing dinner Jade and I talked bikepacking, their amazing adventures sailing and also a motorcycle tour through Africa. They were quite the wanderers and adventure types. I was really impressed that they just flew from Alaska without bikes and for under $2000 they were riding nice mountain bikes and Jade sewed their frame bags! Crazy. And to boot they were travelling lighter than me which always peaks my interest. Granted their bike trip was 12 days only.

We said our goodbyes this morning at 7 and I was riding my 7:30. I wound my way out of town quickly and found myself on a dirt track that climbed for a very long time but at a descent grade. It took me above Arrowtown and then eventually exposed views all the way to Queenstown and the lake. It’s a popular running loop and there were a few runners out since it’s the weekend.

After cresting the climb of 260 m the trail levelled and then dumped me onto the highway for another big climb. This climb was similar to mountain pass climbs back home. Endless switchbacks and relentless grade. I was cautious checking behind every time I went to a corner to make sure cars behind he’d clear sight lines of me. Fortunately, being up early, I beat most of the tourists.

At the top I learned it’s the highest sealed road in New Zealand at close to 1100 m. I chatted with a few tourists at the top, put my windbreaker back on and started down the other side with my first destination in mind, Wanaka. The descent was significant and I’m getting good at these descents but they aren’t nothing. I find you need to ‘take the lane’ because it’s not safe staying pinned on the side with the speeds topping often over 50 km/hr. I’m constantly looking back for traffic which is also not easy to do.

After the descent, and some pedalling, I rolled into a hamlet called Cardrona. I spotted a sign for coffee and got excited only to find the place closed. Foiled I kept going until rolling into Wanaka at about 10 and 50 km of riding. This place is beautiful with an amazing lakefront and a nice little town centre right along the lake. I pedalled through on the cycle path which was a nice break from the highway, and stopped a cafe that specialized in donuts. I really love how few chains exist in New Zealand. There are so many independent spots. I cringed in Queenstown at the site of a Starbucks but was happy to use their WIFI. Sheesh, don’t tell them.

I sat down with my chocolate caramel muffin at a picnic table out front and was quickly joined by a lady on vacation. She was a Kiwi living in California for 30 years and she was travelling the Island with 12 friends. The muffin and coffee were both exceptional and I left feeling re-energized and ready to ride on to Lake Hawea.

The trail to Lake Hawea was fabulous. It started along Lake Wanaka and then eventually followed the river all the way to Lake Hawea. Along the way I ran into Derek again which we both found entertaining. While I rode the Queenstown trail he continued on to Cardrona and slept behind a church. While we were stopped we chatted with another Kiwi biker who was jealous that we’d seen more of his country than he had.

From this vantage point it looked like the road went straight into the lake.

Just before the ‘neck’ looking at Lake Hawea.

I said goodbye to Derek and was soon climbing a little incline when 2 guys on e-MTB’s passed me. That ignited my competitive juices so I stepped into the pedals and got into their slip stream and we flew along for a good few kilometres. They slowed for some reason so I passed and carried the pace for another couple kilometres. Eventually I let them pass and received some really nice compliments on their way past.

Further along I came to a really cool standing wave in the river. There was a kayak bobbing around followed by a surfer. That’s an impressive skill where they float down then get standing in the wave and they hang there for a few minutes.

Other side of the neck with Lake Wanaka in the background.

I continued to Lake Hawea which is another great little town. I followed a walking trail for a few hundred metres and sat on a grassy patch with an incredible view of Lake Hawea. I dialed my daughter on FaceTime just to show her the view. After lunch I got on my bike and quickly met a walker who was interested in helping a fellow cyclist. He told me about the road in front of me and resupply options. I decided to top up my food and then I set out on the 50 km trip to Makarora.

I started and knew it would be tough with a strong headwind. It wasn’t like the push into Lake Tepako but it was signifiant, enough to expose whitecaps on the lake. I was happy that the trafffic was light and everyone passing gave me a respectable distance while passing. The scenery was gorgeous as you ride parallel to Lake Hawea. These lakes have the most spectacular blue colour. It feels like you are on the Mediterranean but it’s fresh water.

It was a long pull along Lake Hawea and eventually you enter into an area called the neck where you can almost see both Lake Wanaka and Lake Hawea at the same time as you dissect the two of them.

I was starting to tire with the wind and was really happy to roll into Makarora and a holiday park.

Tomorrow the forecast is for some rain so I’ll have to contemplate what I want to take on.

Highlights:

-dirt road climb above Arrowtown and Queenstown

-climbing to the top of the highest sealed road in NZ

-coffee and treats in Wanaka

-lunch at Lake Hawea and the cycle trail

-views of Lake Hawea and Lake Wanaka

Distance: 128 km and 1846 m elevation gain

Today's ride: 128 km (79 miles)
Total: 3,391 km (2,106 miles)

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