Allison and I wake up an hour before sunrise prepped and ahead of schedule for our very first bike-tour with a departure goal of 7:00 - 7:30am. We run through our respective food and clothing choices one last time, each carefully considering if we can downsize our loads just a little bit more. We're fully credit-carding the trip, stopping in hotels and B&B's for lodging, so the ability to travel light is a huge benefit I aim to take full advantage of. 

After a few final checks, we're just about ready to go before Allison points out that our Calico cat, Mini, is missing. We break out the flashlights, anxiously search outside & eventually track her down in a neighbor’s yard across the street. I get her back inside and give both her & our 2nd cat, Tux, respective chin scratches before leaving and locking the door behind us. 

Go time 

We hop on our bikes, start Strava & take off from the driveway en route to Mile Marker 0 of the Chesapeake and Ohio Canal in Georgetown, Washington DC. Smooth sailing for 7+ miles to the zero-mile marker.

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Next up is the trailhead for the obligatory Starting point photo-op. Since beginning my first real year of actual riding last winter, I’ve done a couple Centuries (The 1st from Georgetown to Williamsport and 2nd being an Out-&-back from Georgetown) and a few 50milers on the C&O, but I’d never actually seen the official trailhead before. I consult Google Maps as we navigate the .3 miles north towards the sign and a few snapshots later, we're off.

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We've got good weather (30 – 45 minutes of light rain) and nice scenery for the next few hours, catching great views of the Potomac to our left and various wildlife to our right along the way.

All smiles from me, however the bumpiness and slightly rougher trail conditions between Georgetown and MM20 or so bother Allison a bit. When we hit the resurfaced portion of the trail near Seneca, MD (MM23) she's immediately delighted and gladly welcomes the more comfortable, luxury style riding.

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Around 35 miles in Allison suggests we stop at the next available rest area and a few moments later I spot White's Ferry up ahead. Now as young black professionals gaining mileage and quickly distancing ourselves from home, it may have behooved us to more closely consider this place's name, but we none the less decide to stop. It's soon made clear that our initial trepidations were warranted as multiple Confederate flags flap in the wind, propped atop dirty pickup trucks surrounded by an actual motorcycle gang. We take note and quickly refuel on electrolytes, fruit gummies and PB crackers before making our way anywhere but here.

Best Laid Plans

We’d set a modest goal of reaching the town of Brunswick, MD(MM55) for the evening - putting us at 62miles of total riding - but as we approach the city ahead of schedule Allison suggests we press on to Harper's Ferry. 

We pedal on and reach Harper’s Ferry(MM60) sooner than expected. It's a pleasant, but unexpected surprise because we have another 10 miles to go based on my initial planning. I'm quite confused and frankly can't believe how I could've mistakenly underestimated the mileage of a potential break/lodging point so early in the ride. It turns out the website I'd used to coordinate our schedule listed the incorrect mile marker. 

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Having already traveled 67 miles and excited to see the visitors crossing the pedestrian into the town of Harper’s Ferry, I  foolishly thought we’d be able to take a load off, find lodging & call it a night. 

As we cross the river into town and catch sight of the droves of tourists and multiple tourbuses, we quickly realize this may be a problem. I walk into the first B&B I see and ask about availability. The concierge woman appears shocked, then laughs & says, 'we're fully booked this weekend'.

We try to search online, make calls and look around for any viable options, but cell service is practically non-existent for either of us. We valiantly struggle to contact any lodging options in or around Harper’s Ferry and some friendly couples offer suggestions, but to no avail. 

At this point, we both acknowledge a glaring observation we've noticed along the first 60+ miles of our ride. We have seen only a handful of black people since leaving our front door. More specifically, we've only seen a handful of people this entire day who are not white. The unfortunate lack of diversity and cultural representation we've witnessed so far is disappointing, but not at all surprising. I remind Allison that I've been on this trail many times in the last several months and that this is no phenomenon, but note that I have also never ventured beyond the 100MM point in Williamsport, MD. I point out that there are still hundreds of miles to go along this route and imagine that the extended distance will provided an opportunity to demonstrate a bit more diversity as well.  

We have different ideas of 'Vacation'

In the midst of this dilemma, a conversation that especially stands out to me is one had with a middle-aged black couple. They're incredibly helpful and more than happy to offer their support, which I greatly appreciate. A highlight of our discussion is when the man learns that we are headed to Pittsburgh, at which point he appears genuinely shocked. ‘Wow! Ok. Why?!' he exclaims and then asks. I instinctively respond, ‘Because it’s fun!’, drawing a look of confusion. I then follow up with further details and reasoning, such as the proximity of the canal to our home and how the ride can make for a unique, relaxing experience in nature to disconnect from the typical ins and outs of our daily life(at least I hope). The additional information seems to add context to my enthusiasm and provides him with a bit more understanding of my desire to do this in the first place. Through this conversation I soon realized that most people don't view the idea of riding a bike for days on end with their concept of 'vacation'. That said, they were inspired to learn of our plan and very encouraging about the adventure ahead.

New plan

We decide to cut our losses, cross the bridge out of town and ride over to the next city, Shepherdstown(MM72), another 12 miles away. By the time we make it it's pitch black and our bike lights are no longer cutting it. After quite an adventure getting off the trail and into the town itself, we head to the Bavarian Inn to grab food & check to see if they might have an available room (of their 72). You guessed it – totally booked. I'm then informed that Shepherd University’s homecoming football game had taken place that afternoon and that most of the surrounding area (20+ miles) was likely booked to capacity as a result. 

Questioning the plausibility of this statement, we spend the next 1.5 hours eating German food and searching for any possible lodging nearby. It was indeed possible – there was nothing available. This is small town living mind you; something we should have better considered before deciding to bike another hour down a dark towpath.

At the 11th hour, I find a motel 28 miles down the trail and am also lucky enough to track down a shuttle service that can carry us and our bikes there. It's our only option (outside of sleeping on a picnic table along the trail which I was more than willing to do, but Allison is understandably having none of) and it genuinely saves the day. I sadly concede to the fact that I will have to miss out on mileage along the C&O during our ride, but my disappointment eventually gives way to the notion that I now have a reason to do the entire trip again soon.

We're picked up around 11pm, shuttled over to our motel in Williamsport, MD and check into our room. I notice frayed duct tape holding a badly torn office chair together, kill a handful of stink bugs scattered across the walls (probably should've read some more reviews), plug in our devices to charge overnight, shower up and grab some shut eye.

Despite the minor setbacks, it's an incredible day overall & my enthusiasm and excitement for the days ahead continues to grow. The logistical challenges are just a tiny hurdle, but serve more as a reminder to embrace the experience and enjoy your 'vacation'.