September 27, 2010
Aquelia
Last night's dinner was exceptionally elegant, tasty and small. We had a seafood risotto and a very nice house wine, served as they often do slightly chilled. Breakfast wasn't until 8.30am so it made for a late start. Our route as far as Monfalcone was right by the coast but high up in the cliffs - I hadn't realized just how mountainous the coast around Treiste is. After that we cut across to Grado which was a rather tedious ride over dead flat country with seemingly very little of interest. Just as we reached Grado the heavens opened and we took shelter in a bus stop until all was dry again. Grado is a holiday town with lots and lots of camping grounds and hotels, the old heart seems completely buried. We didn't spend time looking for it and went straight over the causeway. This is amazing it is around 4 or 5km long and led us to the road that took us to Aquelia.
Aquelia was our final destination for the day. It was an important Roman town and was at the end of the AmberTrail and it was here that craftsmen worked the amber. It was the end of the route that Anne Mustoe described in her book and her book gives lots of fascinating detail about the history of the town and in particular the amber trade. However it was Monday so as in many small Italian towns most of the shops were shut, the museum where the amber is displayed was shut and even the gelateria was shut. However the Bascilica was open and this has an astonishing 5th Century mosaic floor, this was not discovered until about 1920 and has been very carefully excavated and preserved - it is huge and said to be the largest such mosaic floor in the west. In addition there are well preserved 12th Century frescos.
We have a good room above a Pizza Restaurant and Bar - much more suitable than the elegance of last night.
Today's ride: 57 km (35 miles)
Total: 2,757 km (1,712 miles)
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