Last Day on the Road: Palmanova to Grado

September 8, 2018

Sunny and warm, the weather improves as we get closer to the coast. The first few kilometers after we leave Palmanova aren't too interesting as we ride a gravel path between fields, but we are avoiding traffic so we stick to the signposted Alpe-Adria route. Then we are again on a dedicated bike path next to the road, much more pleasant.

About midway we reach Aquilea. I haven't done my homework and have no idea what is awaiting us. I'm glad we don't just ignorantly sail by. Aquileia was founded as a colony by the Romans in 180 BC and has a long and rich history. It is one of the main archeological sites of Northern Italy and is probably the largest Roman city yet to be excavated. The Roman mosaics and Byzantine frescoes are amazing. We take our time looking at the basilica's mosaics and frescoes and we wouldn't mind returning for a second visit.

From Aquileia it's not far to Grado. This is a popular stretch for cyclists on organized tours but it is off-season and not crowded. It might be different when more people are on vacation. Then comes the big moment when we get our first view of the Mediterranean. We made it! To reach Grado you cross the lagoon on a narrow strip of land. It's beautiful, we are very excited and I take many selfies of Janos and myself.

Grado is touristy, but here too we benefit from it being off-season and it isn't too crowded. Actually, it's very nice. There are quaint old streets in the center and some Roman ruins, as well. Before we check in at our hotel, we stop for something to eat and a celebratory glass of wine, sparkling white wine on tap which is a specialty of Friuli. Our hotel is on the harbor and from our window we can see the boats in the marina.

And another view - I really liked Palmanova.

Now we are on an excellent bike path all the way to the coast.

Hey, stop! Aquileia! What we didn't know but later read in the Internet: Traces of the magnificent Roman Empire rest here in Aquileia.

The Patriarchal Basilica at Aquileia with its baptistery and majestic bell tower. The oldest nucleus is formed by the Paleochristian Room, built in the 4th Century A.D. by the Bishop Teodoro, with support from the Emperor Constantine.

The floor mosaics both inside and outside the basilica are magnificent.

The basilica also provides access to the Crypt of Frescoes, decorated with rare Byzantine frescoes.

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Kathleen JonesI want to ride this right now. I had no idea how wonderful this route was. Thanks for the tour.
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6 years ago

Keith ClassenHi Suzanne - thanks for posting your trip. We had full intentions of doing this route this year but it just didn’t happen. But we have done a few sections of it so with your journal we have a good sense of what we missed. So Its going to have to be another time. All the best to both of you.
Keith
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6 years ago

Nancy GrahamWhat a wonderful tour. Thank you for writing all the great stories of you ride and posting those beautiful photos.
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6 years ago

Scott AndersonThanks again for posting this, Suzanne. This is a region we want to come back to before long, and you’ve given us some ideas on where to look. Congratulations on the ride, too! It sounded like you were a bit apprehensive going in, but it was a big success. We look forward to seeing you on the road again soon.
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6 years ago

Suzanne GibsonTo Kathleen JonesYou would love it, I'm sure! Glad you enjoyed the tour!
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6 years ago

Suzanne GibsonTo Keith ClassenThanks, Keith! Hope you do get to ride this route!
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6 years ago

Suzanne GibsonTo Nancy GrahamThank you, Nancy! I love taking pictures and I'm happy you enjoyed them.
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6 years ago

Suzanne GibsonTo Scott AndersonHope you do get back to this part of Europe before too long. It is the very best.
Yes, we were apprehensive - but no more. I have lots of ideas of where I'd like to cycle from your journals, too. Not that I would tackle all those mountains, but there was also some more feasible stuff in between I think.
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6 years ago