September 23, 2017
Conclusion
The trip was only a partial success because I pedaled less than half as far as originally planned. But I don't regret my decision to end the tour in Durango. The terrain is challenging. I don't need a perpetual headwind to add to the difficulty.
I pedaled 414 miles (662 km) in 11 days and had several rewarding tourist stops:
Long stop at Old Town Albuquerque.
Hiked to Spence and San Antonio hot springs in the Jemez mountains.
Hiked through 3 areas of ancient Native American ruins:Bandelier National Monument, Tsankawi Ruins, and
Was a passenger on 2 historic narrow gauge railroads:
Aztec Ruins National MonumentCumbres & Toltec, Durango & Silverton
Afterwards I realized it would have been possible to detour to the Puye cliff dwellings. It would make an easy day into a difficult day, but it would be doable if I planned for it.
No aches and pains and no problem with exhaustion. The exertion level was a good match for my abilities. My previous tour on the Atlantic Coast had flat terrain. This tour was much hillier, noticeably more difficult.
I hit the weather "sweet spot" pretty well. The weather was reliably warm by late morning, but never really hot. By sheer luck I was never on the road during a thunderstorm.
I arrived home 11 days after the bedbug bites first appeared. The bites no longer itched but were still visible.
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I really enjoy traveling in New Mexico. It's off the beaten path and often misunderstood. A large percentage of Americans think New Mexico is not part of the U.S. I like seeing the remnants of Spanish colonialism and seeing that most ranches are owned by Hispanic families who worked the land for generations before U.S. independence. I like seeing the Indian reservations each do their own thing, though I'm not pleased to see the poverty.
Food is perhaps the best reason to visit New Mexico. New Mexico has the best southwest cuisine because it grows the best chili peppers and knows how to use them. Southwest cuisine also features local crops such as beans, corn, squash, onions, and tomatoes. Bread is usually corn tortillas. Meats tend to be spiced liberally. Cheese is a garnish, not a food group.
During the tour I stumbled onto some of New Mexico's local favorites:
Traditional pork-stuffed Chile Relleno in Old Town Albuquerque.
Green chile cheese burger at Blake's Lotaburger.
Butternut squash enchiladas at Abiquiu Inn.
Apache version of a Navajo Taco in the Jicarilla Apache reservation.
Many versions of breakfast burrito. The best one was from the tribe-owned supermarket in the Jicarilla Apache reservation.
Bosque IPA beer, brewed in Albuquerque.
My first independent bike tour was in New Mexico at less than half my current age.
This was my 3rd bike tour in New Mexico. I wouldn't mind doing 3 more bike tours in New Mexico.
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