The Plan
So we're off again on another little adventure.
When we finished our last (spectacular) more or less cut-and paste tour of several French gorges and the Spanish Pyrenees, we were musing about the next tour being a Santander to Split or even a Japanese adventure.
With lots of time to dream, ponder, ruminate and iterate, things changed and we ended up with what's going to unfold here over the next 10 weeks; a circular(ish) route starting and finishing in Milan (well, the Milan international airport, which is actually a long way from Milan).
We'll start by heading south-east through the Po valley to Ancona on the Adriatic coast, giving us a bit of a flattish warm-up. From there we're catching a ferry to Split, Croatia and we'll start island hopping north along the Dalmatian coast. That will lead us into Slovenia, new for us, and the mountains! The Julian Alps will give way to the Dolomites as we zig zag our way west. Next up will be the South Tyrol Alps and then a small diversion into the Graubünden canton of Switzerland which will set up our return to Italy via Lakes Como, Lugano, Maggiore and Orta.
For anyone following along, we like to get comments as we meander down the road. To be able to comment, you have to sign up to Cycle Blaze, but it's free and easy to do, just check out the link at the top of the website home page.
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When trying to come up with a name for this tour I was playing around with acronyms of the areas we'd be travelling through. DADA was stuck in my brain for quite a while as the Dada movement "tended to make use of nonsense, irrationality, and an anti-bourgeois sensibility" (Wikipedia). This sounded particularly apropos of the way one significant part of the world formerly known as 'The Leader of the Western World" seems to be right now.
However, the sequencing of the letters didn't fit with the chronology of the trip and that was loading more stress onto my little brain. We are going from Adriatic to Dalmatia to Dolomites to Alps. That's ADDA dammit!
That's also the Attention Deficit Disorder Association. This would also be appropriate for the current situation (wait, what was that last head spinning headline!! Look, a squirrel ...., Oh, the sky is falling!) however these trips are about getting away from the daily noise and distractions of so called 'regular life' and focusing on moving your pedals around, moving your bike and your body down the road and savouring the moment.
With that in mind, it struck me that we would be crossing the Adda river as it flows into the Po right near the start of our trip, and nearing the finish of our tour, we would be riding along the Adda again as it flows south into Lake Como. This is a nice logical joining together of two ends of a string to form a circle and that works for me. So the ADDA Tour it is.
With that out of the way, and now thinking happy thoughts of pedalling across beautiful islands and through stunning alpine meadows, I remembered a wonderful book our dear friend Kim B gave our kids long ago - Dr Suess's "Oh, The Places You'll Go!".
To quote from the inside cover 'It is the perfect send-off for children starting out in the maze of life, be they nursery school grads or newly minted PhD's. Everyone will find it inspired good fun." I think this applies to oldish cycle travellers as well, so there's the main journal title and theme. And who doesn't like Dr Seuss???
I also have to recognize that there is not really that much that is new under the sun with our route. As with our last couple of tours, we owe a huge thank you to the greater CB community for inspiring and laying out the route for a very large part of this tour. As always, TA for the Croatian island hopping; Jill Gelineau and Susan Carpenter for their adventures in Slovenia; the Classens and Jacquie Gaudet for the Dolomites; Polly Low for the Graubünden section and once again TA and J.G. for the Italian lakes. I think it was Jacquie and Al's ride from Bolzano to Corvara through the Alpe di Siusi, that made us say "Oh, That Is a Place We HAVE To Go'.
So here we go.
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And it still astonishes me that we’re flying over on the same day and that we almost decided to start in Milan rather than Bari. If we had I’m pretty sure we’d have found ourselves on the same overseas flight. Buon Viaggio to all of us, and I hope it works to meet up near Turin at the end.
1 week ago
1 week ago
From what we’e seen of your itinerary, meeting up around Asti around 1st July +/- a few days would work for us. Lots of time to sort details before then.
6 days ago
We will be in your area for a few weeks (last half of June) after we complete our tour and it would be lovely to get together with you and Janos. Maybe we could take this to a separate email thread ( ltmcleod1 at gmail)
6 days ago
We’re in the process of rebooking, but we have our plan. We’ll pass right through your town on July 3rd on our way to Legnano, our staging town for the ride to Milan. So that might work out pretty well.
Before that though we’ll be pretty close too if you still have the bikes assembled and want to join us up on the shoreline of Lake Maggiore. We’ll be in Cannobio for three nights and Arona for another three: hiking, biking, and getting around the lake by ferry. We’re very excited about that and grateful you prompted us to look again.
5 days ago
Allow me few hints to be considered (or not) on your trip:
Bergamo (IT) - just few meters before turning left to PortaNuova, on your right side is sandwich shop, called All'Antico Vinaio (originating from Firenze)
Bologna (IT) - after mortadella and lambrusco, you might have some energy left to climb to Madonna di San Luca. Chance to check climbing gearing! Or walk the endless portico stairway.
Dozza (IT) make a short detour from flat and straight way out of Bologna.
Forli (IT) drive through main square, do not detour.
Cesena (IT) when entering the town (weather and time permitting), have a lovely aperitivo at Com@bar (Vialle della Resistenca, just along your route). DO NOT book Hotel Bed & Bike (no bike storage).
Longiano (IT) well hidden beside the parking lot (Piazza 11 Octobre 1944), small bakery with perfect cookies!
On the way to Ravenna&Rimini, you have to taste fresh piedina.
Croatia and Slovenia: get in contact with locals and learn pronuntiation. Tongue breaking, funny, interesting!
Island hopping Croatia (HR):
Zadar (HR): there might be a chance, that ferry will land directly in old town. Search for sea organ and have a drink at Arsenal (hopefully bar still open)
Island Pag (HR): in order to avoid coastal road stretch beween ferry ports Prizna (mainland – island Pag) and Stinica (mainland – island Rab), check at www.rapska-plovidba.hr the possibility to take a small ferry boat from Lun (Pag north) and Rab city.
Istrian peninsula (HR): coming back to mainland from island of Cres, after passing Labin and Barban, head to Prodol and Krnica. Settlement nearby, Cokuni offers best goat cheese experience: www.kumparicka.com. No big detour on the way to Pula.
Poreč (HR) towards Slovenia (SI): pollibility to ride Parenzana trail - old decommisioned railway track. Loose and course gravel, but passable with 45mm tires. In slovenian part fully paved.
If still want to stick original plan: after entering to Slovenia and climbing to Sveti Peter and Nova Vas, possible detour to Marezige (SI) with interesting POI: wine fountain. Thanks to red soil (a lot of iron – terra rossa), wines will be different as further north in Friuli – Collio wine region between Cormons (IT) and Cividale (IT).
When cruising the region of Trieste (IT), you might be tempted to visit Osmizza (use translator to ENG: Osmiza - Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia) – for 8 days farmstead is allowed to sell own wine and cold cuts in their backyard. Affordable and authentic.
You will pass by several of haute cuisine offering in the region, like Bastianich near Cividale and across border, Hiša Franko, Staro selo, Kobarid (SI).
In front of you some more serious »mountaneering« as hilly and mountaneous Slovenia will be revealed. You will experience beauties of Karst phenomena. Just before Postojna (with its cave), you will cross a field (Planina) which is lake during spring and autumn, in summer – hayfields. I suggest you small shortcut after depart from Postojna towards Ljubljana: visit Rakov Škocjan (champagne gravel road) – remainings of ancient cave with collapsed ceiling – some natural bridges. After Ljubljana (SI), your legs will be already fit for forthcoming climbing. In case of bad weather, possibility to detour Julian Alps (Vršič pass, river Soča valley, Predil pass) is to ride directly from Kranjska Gora (SI) to Tarvisio (IT) using paved cycling path (ex rail).
Have a safe trip!
in order to skip the stretch of coastal road between
5 days ago
Sounds like you have quite a bit of experience in these area’s. Your hints will come in handy for sure.
5 days ago
That seems odd. It’s Ltmcleod1 at gmail dot com.
i.e my first and second initial, l and t, my last name, the number one and then gmail and com.
5 days ago
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