In Budapest

September 8, 1994 to September 9, 1994

Today was an off-the-bike day, visiting with the Hersheys and touring the city. As with the first day together with them, in Vienna, we struggled a bit to find a balance to our needs - with only one day we wanted to cover some territory, while Alan wanted to spend three hours on a tour with the cab driver he befriended the night before. In the end, we found what I hope was a good compromise and a satisfactory day for all of us.

We began with a leisurely breakfast at the Lido - a plate of cold-cuts, bread and tea; and about 10:30 caught the taxi into Pest with the Hersheys to exchange money and complete various errands while the driver left, never to return, to repair his muffler. We then separated for three hours - we left on foot, and they waited for the taxi driver - Alan's new driver- to return. we planned to meet up again at 3, on Castle Hill in front of Saint Matthias Church.

We walked briefly through the nearby commercial area, stopping to buy film and then a beautiful tortoise shell hair clip for Rachael from a riverside booth. We then crossed to the Buda side of the city over the Chain Bridge for a ride in the funicular to the top of the hill.

The city is really beautiful - every bit as much as we had been lead to expect. From either bank there are striking, colorful monuments, churches and public buildings defining the skyline. The two halves of the city are joined in half a dozen places by bridges spanning the Danube. One of the many fine features of Castle Hill is the promenade along both the east and west flanks of the ridge, with striking views across to Pest or to the west hills.

While waiting for Laurie and Allen to show up, we dodged a brief rainstorm by hiding out in a pastry shop; walked a circuit of old town, avoiding the most obvious sites (Matthias Church and the Fisherman's Bastion) to see later with our friends; and quickly passed through the National Gallery, receiving a blitz overview of Hungarian artists.

At three we met up by Saint Matthias, as planned. However, they had already been on the scene for an hour and had already visited the church, since their cab never returned. So instead of seeing it together we again briefly split up - they made their way down to Old Town while we entered the cathedral and walked along Fisherman's Bastion. Both were spectacular. The cathedral is wonderful from all angles, inside and out. The tilework of the roof is very beautiful - and the interior is quite different and distinctive, with most surfaces painted in variegated, geometric patterns in pastel blues, beiges and reds. It creates a very soothing atmosphere. The Bastion is of note not only for its striking architecture but also for the wonderful cityscapes visible from its ramparts, and for its romantic street life - energetic young people give it an invigorating feel, and gypsy musicians work the crowds from every cupola.

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