Forks

August 8, 2019

Surprise! It looks like there’s reasonable WiFi at our motel in Forks. While you’re waiting for us to complete this entry, you can go back for a second look at the previous one (Lake Crescent), because now, there’s video! Yay!!

More later.

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OK, I was wrong. The WiFi is pretty pathetic here, so I give up. You probably won’t hear much of anything from us for the next several days, which is fine. We’re in a wilderness area, after all.

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OK, now we’re cooking. Three days later and we’re in Aberdeen where the skies are grey but the WiFi is hot, hot, hot. Let’s catch up a bit.

Once again we tried to get an early start. We’re going to backtrack the last three miles of Highway 101 that we biked last night coming in to Lake Crescent, and we’re hoping an early start might bring us less traffic on this narrow, winding road. Also, we want to allow plenty of time for biking the north shore of the lake because we understand that parts of it are primitive and a slow go.

At the last minute, we almost talk ourselves out of this plan, after looking at the ODT map and seeing the notes on this section of the trail warning of poison oak and ticks. We envision a bush scramble, and consider again whether we should just continue biking west on 101, saving 10 miles at the cost of seven more miles of scary, stressful road. It helped getting a fresh first hand trail report from Lars and Liese yesterday. They didn’t complain about poison ivy and ticks, so we decide to face up to those risks rather than compete for space with the logging trucks.

We’re on the road before 9, and are rewarded by a very quiet three miles on 101. Much better than last night, and not at all scary. Soon we’re retracing last nights ride along the northeast shore of the lake, and about eight miles into the ride we rejoin the ODT.

The next 20 miles have a strong claim for being the best ride of the whole tour. I can’t believe that we almost talked ourselves out of coming this way. This is really a special section of the ODT, probably the crown jewel. This stretch is known as the Spruce Railroad Trail, as it follows the course of an old rail line that was built during the First World War to transport spruce from the rain forest for building aircraft for the war effort.

The rail line wasn’t completed in time to help the war effort (but good news: our side won anyway), but it was active for about forty years before it was finally abandoned in 1953. Now, it is being converted over the course of a three year project into a high grade paved multi-use trail following the shore of the lake. The project is nearing completion, and we’re fortunate that we’re here during one of the quiet periods between construction phases when the trail is open.

The whole ride is spectacular, but the most dramatic is the unfinished section between the two tunnels. One has been renovated and reopened, but the other is still collapsed and the trail between them is undeveloped. Instead, there is about a mile long stretch consisting of a narrow, precarious path along the base of a crumbling cliff. Rachael’s video gives a good sense of this section, but relax when you watch it - she’s gingerly walking the trail, and the video is sped up.

At Lake Crescent Lodge, waiting for the morning’s caffeine to take hold.

Looking across Lake Crescent from the lodge. The rocky cliffs opposite are the two Tunnel section of the Spruce Railroad Trail.

Beach Road, on the northeast shoreline of Crescent Lake. We biked this road yesterday going in the opposite direction.

Lyle River, the outlet for Crescent Lake

The entrance to the McFee Tunnel, a recently renovated section of the Spruce Railroad Trail.

In the McFee Tunnel. Unlit and a bit spooky, but too short to be a real concern.

A bit bow legged. Been in the saddle too long.

Timing is everything. This would break a few spokes if you were here at the wrong time.

Normally Rachael would just zip right through something like this, but she’s going slow today so she won’t miss anything.

Between the tunnels on the Spruce Railroad Trail.

Video sound track: Bury Me Smiling, by the Ballroom Thieves

The western entrance to the collapsed Rankin Tunnel, which I believe is also scheduled for renovation soon.

Looking across Lake Crescent from the Spruce Railroad Trail.

A recently paved section of the Spruce Railroad Trail. I believe the remaining unpaved section is also due for completion next year.

On the ODT, and probably still on the Spruce Railroad Trail. I’m unclear how far west the rail line extended, but this is so level and straight that it feels like a rail to trail conversion.

I like how the detritus is lined with bicycle tracks.

On the ODT, climbing to the low divide separating Lake Crescent from the Sol Duc basin.

Video sound track: Tanglewood Tree, by Dave Carter and Tracy Grammer

Still on the ODT, paralleling the Sol Duc and dropping toward the Pacific.

This is a wonderful time to ride this section of the trail. It’s been newly developed in the last few years and the surface is perfectly smooth and unblemished.

The fun ends when we rejoin Highway 101 just past Sappho, and follow it for the last 12 miles of the day. It’s busy, but there’s a generous 8’ shoulder all the way to Forks.

We arrive in Forks about 4, naturally, and find about what we expected - not a great deal. We have a decent motel for the night, and find a passable pizzeria for our evening meal; but Forks is no tourist destination, except as a resource base for excursions into the surrounding wilderness. Which is fine with us; we can’t be staying every night in a fancy, high-$$ national park lodge, after all.

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Lise FraserI’m so glad you enjoyed the ODT! The trail is truly wonderful (aside from the short section which was truly rough!) and we loved it too. Great photos and video! Much fun following you, Lise
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5 years ago

Rachael AndersonTo Lise FraserYes, it was a wonderful trail and the rough part made for sure some interesting pictures and video. Thanks for following along!
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5 years ago

Ride stats today: 50 miles, 1,700’; for the tour, 873 miles, 44,000’

Today's ride: 50 miles (80 km)
Total: 873 miles (1,405 km)

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Jen RahnWow - indeed a beautiful section of the ODT!
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5 years ago