To Rhayader

August 13, 2022

We’re out in the country, and I’m wakened at dawn by the neighborhood rooster crowing in through our open window. It’s fine - I lie there dozing off and on as I slowly wake up from a restless night in our too hot room. It’s pleasant now though, both of us naked and uncovered except for the sheet it’s finally cooled down enough to warrant pulling up.

Then, another sound - a rustling or rattling from inside the apartment. I turn over to see if Rachael’s still in bed, assuming it’s her up and trying to find her way into the bathroom. But no, she’s there next to me, her eyes glazed but open, staring back at me.

I thought I heard something in the room, I explain. But then the door breaks open and in pops a woman - a hefty middle aged one, hair done up, scantily clad in a very low cut party dress and heels. I shout at her that she’s got the wrong room, but she keeps coming, mutely at first but then mumbling something about pee as she reaches for the bathroom door.

More shouting from both of us, progressively louder, which at least briefly stops her progress. Then Rocky leaps out of bed, takes her by the arm and turns her around toward the exit and wrests her out and locks the door. It’s a striking image to start the day on: two figures, one half clad, one not at all; one buxom, bleary and broad and the other lithe and colorfully striped with biker tan lines. A shame I didn’t have a quicker wit and the camera by the bed.

The Castle Inn, a nice place if you should find yourself in Knucklas. Lock your door though.

It’s nearly 9:30 when we finally leave Knucklas. We should have been out the door a couple of hours ago really, but breakfast wasn’t available until 7:45. By the time we do leave it’s already warmer and heating up fast. We’re here at a historic time. Yesterday UK’s Environment Ministry announced that large swathes of England and eastern Wales are officially under drought conditions, and this July was the driest recorded in England since 1935.

This is so unlike the experience I imagined in coming to England, when I expected we’d frequently encounter rain. At least Rachael’s not been troubled by Reynaud’s Syndrome this summer.

The good thing today is that we’ve got another short day ahead: it’s only 27 miles to Rhayader, so if we keep an average of 8-9 mph we’ll be in by around noon before it gets seriously hot and find a cafe to keep cool in until our room’s available.

Ha, ha. We’ll average closer to 6-7, and by the time we arrive the temp is pushing 90.

Leaving Knucklas. This is the Knucklas Viaduct, built in the early 1860’s, partly from the remains quarried from the ruins of Knucklas Castle.

Its interesting history is worth a read.

In important ways today’s ride is like yesterday’s - meaning it’s too hot, and there’s one damn hill after another. Except that it’s longer, and maybe a bit harder; or maybe it just seems harder because we’re already broken down a bit when we start out.

And, there’s the troubling fact that I really do seem to have damaged my derailleur a bit on that train ride to Shrewsbury. It only shows up as an issue under the right situation - when I’m in my lowest climbing gear, the cage rubs against the tire wall and adds some friction. It doesn’t show up if you’re just spinning through the gears with the bike up on a rack, so maybe it needs the added tension of biking under strain. In any case, as it happens I’m needing that gear often lately, and the added friction is no help. Between that and being leg-weary I’m having trouble with any slope more than about 11-12% and am finding myself dismounted and pushing more often. I’ll need to look ahead for a stay with a decent bike shop and just live with it until then.

The first of the seven climbs for the day that our Garmin’s ClimbPro page has lined up for us.

Beautiful, verdant, scattered with the sheep that helped create this shorn look. In the not so deep past this was all a temperate forest.

Starting in on #3, which is a trick - it’s really three significant climbed bundled into one, each about a half mile long and topping out above 13%. So it’s a nine hill day, not seven. Hey, there are two raptors in this frame!

Red tailed kites! These hills are an important breeding ground for the species.

Over the top, hill #3. See, it’s not just me that’s walking in spots. Just six more to go, plus various others too short to catalog but still steep enough to inflict some damage.

So, on paper pretty much like yesterday. In the real world though it’s different. We’re in the Cambrian Mountains, slowly easing our way into a region known as the Desert of Wales or Elenydd, an expanse of barren, empty land featuring upland moors, heather, few roads, few settlements, and stunning vistas.

Awesome riding country, but probably even more enjoyable on unladen bikes and cooler conditions.

In the Desert of Wales - so called not for its aridity (it’s normally quite wet, we hear) but for its lack of biodiversity due to overgrazing and the lack of roads and towns.

I’ve lost track, but I think that’s 6 of 9 up ahead. And that’s Rocky there in the center, slowly making her way up it.

Another new one for my Welsh dictionary! There are quite a few cattle grids, grates and rough surfaces slowing us down today as well as the hills.

Here’s some of that rough road: weedy, cracked, potholed, strewn with sheep shit.

Beginning the last, rolling descent toward Rhayader.

Over the precipice. Hard to really let yourself go on a rocky lane with a 20% descent.

Church of Saint Mary, Abbeycwmhir. Beautiful but fairly modern, built in 1866

I misspoke earlier. There was one more climb of significance, but finally we’re at the top and it’s a four mile drop to Rhayader - except for the bits that aren’t dropping.

Video sound track: Pavane, by Pablo Segovia Gardel

In the end, we’ve done pretty well and arrive in Rhayader not long after one. We head straight to a cafe where we comfort ourselves with ice cream and ale as we review the day and discuss the state of our legs, stamina and enthusiasm. It occurs to us that we’re in our sixth month now - too late to abort now, but still the longest tour we’ve ever taken.

It won’t all be like the last few days - we’ll leave these crumpled Cambrian Mountains, the heat wave will pass on - but we’re bordering on the edge of Type 3 Fun here and it’s time to ease off a bit. Later in the day we’ll stare at the map and our bookings and engineer in a pair of four night stays to settle in a bit.

You’ve got mail! Before the beginning of the tour Rachael mailed ahead a package of supplies to this place to reprovision from. New toothbrush!

Heart

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Keith AdamsOof. Lumpy lumpy lumpy. No wonder you're feeling it.
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2 years ago

Scott AndersonTo Keith AdamsEven the little lumps are memorable, not always in a good way. I do think though that it’s making the Cambrian Mountains real for us. They’re not just a label on a map any more.
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2 years ago

Ride stats today: 28 miles, 3,000’; for the tour: 1,803 miles, 103,200’

Today's ride: 28 miles (45 km)
Total: 1,802 miles (2,900 km)

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Graham FinchSix months is a long time to be on the road. It all starts to feel more like a familar routine rather than a journey. And that heat is a killer.
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2 years ago

Annette SchneiderWhat a day, beginning with your unexpected guest! Other than "greenbacks" lol, can you comment on the breed of sheep you're seeing... and do you notice fleece or yarn for sale? Seems there'd be quite a lot! Always look forward to your journal... beautiful photos/videos, great commentary, and of course adventure.
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2 years ago

Scott AndersonTo Annette SchneiderWe seem to be long on the adventure front lately, alright. I’m dreadfully ignorant on sheep though - I’ll have to find a primer and study up. Likewise on fleece and wool markers, but now that you’ve mentioned it I’ll keep an eye out. I don’t think we’ve seen the end of sheep quite yet.
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2 years ago

Scott AndersonTo Graham FinchIt is getting to be a bit on the long side, now you mention it. I think we just need to slow down and take some time off though. It’s not like we’re eager to return stateside any time soon.
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2 years ago

Suzanne GibsonMaybe you can find something like an Ibis Hotel or something with air-con. That really saved us in France. Hot on the road is bad enough, but then spending the night in a hot room can really wear you down.
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2 years ago

Scott AndersonTo Suzanne GibsonIt’s hot again tonight, but hopefully we’re at the end of it for the season. It’s suppose to drop about 15F tomorrow and stay down for the next two weeks.
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2 years ago

Bruce LellmanExciting wake up call! But, I have a question, was your door locked?
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2 years ago

Bob DistelbergWell, that opening story painted quite a picture. I kept expecting to read “…and then I woke up from my dream”. You DO know how to have an adventure.
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2 years ago

Scott AndersonTo Bob DistelbergNope. No bizarre dream sequence this time. This was the real deal.
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2 years ago

Scott AndersonTo Bruce LellmanNope. We seldom lock our doors when we’re in the room.
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2 years ago

Rachael AndersonTo Suzanne GibsonYou’re right about the hot rooms. We are staying in small places where the hotels don’t have air conditioning but the heat wave is over for now and now we just have to deal with some rain.
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2 years ago