In Rhayader: the Elan Valley

August 14, 2022

You won’t be surprised to hear that Rachael took advantage of the layover day to take a hike; and although I got out on the bike I took it pretty easy on myself. We covered some of the same terrain though - I rode the Elan Valley bike trail west and up the river past the series of dams and reservoirs that provide much of the water supply for Birmingham and the midlands. I continued following the river past the final reservoir, climbing into the hills until the point where the road drops off into the next river valley, the Ystwyth.

I could have continued on by taking the ‘mountain route’ home by dropping to the Ystwyth, climbing out the other side and then dropping to the Wye and following it downriver back to Rhayader - and in fact that’s what I had mapped as the original plan. When I got to the top of the descent to the Ystwyth though I considered these facts: I’ve got a problem with the derailleur; there’s an 800’ unpaved climb in two miles on the other side; it’s quite hot; and I left home without any water. Under the circumstances going forward seems just a bit foolhardy. Instead I doubled back for a few miles until reaching the Elan Bridge; and from there I took the direct route back to Rhayader, over the top.

That’s a pretty garbled explanation, maybe because I haven’t had much coffee yet this morning; but maybe the map will help clarify it:

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Rachael and I covered some of the same territory. She walked to and from Rhayader to the Elan Bridge (the point at the top of the first reservoir, and the junction point on my route. I thought I might see her biking back to town and had my eye out for her, but was just too late - she beat me back by about fifteen minutes.

So, three things about the ride. First, it’s still hot - nearly 90F again by the time I make it back. This looks like it though. The weather is due to break this evening and drop by 15-20 degrees and bring showers tomorrow. With luck we’re seeing the end of the last real heat wave of the summer.

Second, it’s really frightening seeing how little water there is in these rivers and the trickle of the Elan between them. And depressing. So many places look like this now - the Rhine, the Po, the Danube, the Colorado. It feels like we’re riding through the apocalypse.

And third: what the hell am I doing out on a 90F day with no water? That’s really stupid. I agree, but it’s largely Rachael’s fault. It’s a story that goes back to last night’s dinner, when Rachael was ready to dig in to her main dish and realized she had no silverware. Odd, and the server was surprised too but brought over another set.

When we got back to the room Rachael was surprised to empty her rucksack and find a set of silverware and her napkin in it. She has no idea how that happened. I thought I might walk them back to the restaurant last night but didn’t find the will. I checked the map and saw I’d be passing the restaurant on the start of today’s ride so I decided I’d just drop them off then.

Rachael is already off on her hike when I head downstairs to start my ride. On the way to the shed I remember the silverware but decide it’s not worth the bother to go back. When I get to the bike though I realize I’ve forgotten the water supply too; so of course that’s worth returning for.

Back in the room I find the water bottles (hiding behind the curtain, soaking up the sun), pick them up, and then start looking for the silverware. I don’t spot it so I set the water bottles down and start rummaging through things looking for it. Finally I give up and head back downstairs.

Two miles down the road I stop for a photo, look down, and see I’ve still not got any water. Too late now.

So, Rachael’s fault - right? In her defense though, she did try hard. She filled the bottles and reminded me before leaving not to forget them. Nice try, Rocky!

Another Millenium Milepost, a little different than the others we’ve seen. It’s bilingual!

The start of the Elan Valley trail is very pleasant - shaded, cool. Just the thing for a day like this when you have no water along.

It’s pretty rugged country, the rocky slopes blanketed with bracken and heather.

Caban Coch Dam, first of the four dams on the Elan River. All we’re built between 1893 and 1904 in a project to develop the water supply for Birmingham.

Downloaded from the web. The water level is quite low now, but it must be a wonderful sight in the spring.

Surprisingly, this is the site of the second dam, the Garreg Ddu. The dam is completely submerged and supports this bridge across the reservoir.

On the Elan Valley Trail. For a few miles beyond the Garreg Ddu Dam it’s a well-surfaced unpaved path paralleling the road.

We’re not far beyond the Garreg Ddu Dam before the reservoir tapers off. There’s just a trickle of water running through the Elan River.

At breakfast a woman was commenting on how refreshingly green it is here in Wales. We’re looking at the wettest part of southern England now. Frightening.

The Pen y Garreg Dam. All are elegant, built in the Victorian era. An impressive architectural and engineering achievement to lay down in just a decade.

Above the Pen y Garreg Dam the reservoir quickly fizzles out again. This looks like it would normally be an island.

Looking ahead to the Craig Goch Dam, the final one of the set.

The view west from the Craig Goch Dam. Beyond the reservoir the land is almost completely denuded. Nothing but bracken, grass and sheep.

You can see why this is called the Desert of Wales.

The upper end of the Elan Valley. I’ll follow it up to the divide before turning back.

End of the road. If I continued on I’d drop to the next river, follow it around that formation to the left, and then double back and start climbing. The highway signs describe this as the Mountain Road, which sounds convincing enough to me. If they re calling it a mountain road with all of the these other climbs around I don’t think I should be taking it on today.

On the way back. 4-1/2 miles north to go.

Beginning the drop into the Wye Valley. You’ll recognize this look when you see Rachael’s photos from her hike, below. It’s the same road.

Still dropping, almost into the Bracken zone.

Geynlynn, a small hanging lake just above the Wye. Rhayader is just around the corner.

Rachael - Photos of my 12 mile 2600 ft of climbing hike to the Elan Bridge in the Elan Valley. It was a beautiful hike and it was great to get a break from the saddle!

Ride stats today: 27 miles, 2,000’; for the tour: 1,830 miles, 105,200’

Today's ride: 27 miles (43 km)
Total: 1,829 miles (2,943 km)

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Bruce LellmanI love the mystery of the silverware and how mysterious aging is. This morning I went to the grocery to buy peaches and nectarines because they were on sale. I found something else on sale and after I had been home awhile I remembered why I had gone to the store in the first place. So, I went back to get some peaches and nectarines.
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2 years ago

Scott AndersonTo Bruce LellmanMysterious is the right word for it, alright. You really have to keep a flexible attitude and philosophical mindset.
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2 years ago