In Plymouth: Long live the king!

September 8, 2022

It is strange to be here at this time, with the entire world focused on the queen’s passing. It’s such a momentous event - I can’t get past looking at the galleries of photos and marveling at the span of history she’s lived through. The time she was born into is so exotic and completely foreign to the one we live in today. I’ve been reading about the day she became queen in 1952, sitting in a treehouse in Kenya as a guest of the famous man-eating tiger hunter Jim Corbett. I was six at the time, and a few years later I would thrill to reading Out of Africa and Corbett’s Man-Eating Tigers of Kumaon, one of my father’s favorite books, and imagine that I too might visit Kenya someday.

It is also strange for me personally to reflect on the queen’s passing at this time because my mother died about two weeks ago, at the age of 98. She was just a toddler when the queen was born. It was time - her memory had completely failed her and there was little comfort and joy in her days by the end. I can’t help but project that onto the queen’s final months, especially with Prince Philip’s passing the year before, also at age 96, and imagine that she must have felt ready herself.

Philip (born on Corfu in 1921, a fact that also captures my imagination) and Elizabeth were married for 74 years. It’s interesting that my parents’ lives together roughly parallel theirs - mom and dad were married for 76 years! I can’t imagine the void this must leave for dad, who was only 17 when they met.

Here are two favorite photos of my parents, in Santorini from a long-ago trip to Greece - when I was in college fifty years ago, I think. Among other things I love seeing dad holding his camera, something I didn’t appreciate growing up - he had a darkroom and developed his own photos back then. I didn’t gain an interest in photography until I started traveling myself.

It’s another very unstable day, not one for biking. Intermittent fierce cloudbursts are broken up by clearing periods wide enough to get out for a look around Plymouth. We’re in a great location, just three or four blocks from the Hoe in one direction and the Barbican and the historic port area in the other. It’s a beautiful and fascinating place to walk around, a spot dripping with history - the pilgrims set sail from here on the Mayflower, as did Drake on the first round the world voyage; as did Cook on all three of his great voyages, and Darwin on the Beagle. Lawrence of Arabia was stationed here for a time. It feels like a perfectly fitting place to be at the end of an era.

In the Barbican District, the historic neighborhood bordering Sutton Harbour. It’s one of the few well preserved parts of Plymouth, which was devastated by bombing raids in World War Two.

Looking across Sutton Harbour to the Barbican District. We’ve seen rainbows four days straight now!

The enormous swing gates for the locks controlling the entrance to the harbor. There’s a walkway across the top, passable when the gates are closed.

Looking back across the harbor. On the left is the Citadel, and the prominent building in the center is Saint Saviour’s Hall, originally a church.

High chairs, with a reading lamp it appears.

Southside Street, the main commercial strip in the Barbican District.

Plymouth Gin, originally Black Friar’s Distillery, allegedly the oldest still-operating gin distillery in the world.

The Merchant’s House again, with the spire of the Baptist church rising behind.

Rockets & Rascals, a combination bike shop/coffeehouse. I stopped in here for an americano and to admire the vintage bikes hanging from the ceiling and TdF photos and posters on the walls.

In the late afternoon the sun came out again and I went out for a second look before dinner. I wasn’t out long before the roof looked about to fall in again so I hid out at a covered outdoor table on the waterfront. The plan was to meet Rachael at the Thai House at six, centrally positioned about four blocks from each of us.

At about 20 minutes until six it suddenly began raining intensely. Five minutes later the phone rang, with Rachael calling to discuss the weather situation and whether we should wait it out before heading to the restaurant. As we spoke, the far hills started lightening; and by the time we broke off the call it was dry again and the sun was breaking through above the harbor.

The Mayflower Steps, a commemorative spot approximating where the pilgrims were believed to have boarded the Mayflower 400 years ago. Note the British and American flags.

Another view into the Harbour, through the opened locks. Look at those receding clouds! A half hour ago it was pouring here.

Mount Batten Tower, on the peninsula southeast of the Harbour.

It looked like the rain was about to return, so I took shelter under the awning of the Crown & Anchor to pursue some project work.

Yes, it was about to rain alright. It’s a good thing the awning extended well beyond the table. Ten minutes later the sun was out again.

I passed these touring bikes on my way to meet Rachael for dinner. The sleeping bags looked thoroughly soaked.

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Patrick O'HaraCondolences to you and your family on your mother's recent passing, Scott.
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2 years ago

Kathleen JonesSorry about your mother, Scott. She lived a long life, and did all right by you I think.
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2 years ago

Scott AndersonTo Kathleen JonesMore than alright. It took me awhile and some growing up to realize what a gift my upbringing was.
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2 years ago

Steve Miller/GrampiesIt is always hard to lose a parent, as we both know. However, it is comforting that at least they had a good, long lifespan and hopefully a peacefuln end.
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2 years ago

Suzanne GibsonSorry to hear your mother passed away, Scott. It is comforting to know she led a long and full life.
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2 years ago

ann and steve maher-wearyScott, sorry to learn of the death of your mom. In some ways it is fitting to be in England during the Queen’s Royal send off. For you, saluting your mom’s well lived long life too.
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2 years ago

Gregory GarceauI'm just catching up on the last week of the England portion of your tour and it's all good, as per usual. But I had to come back to this page to say how sorry I was to see the news about the passing of your mom. If you mentioned it a couple weeks ago, I'm sorry I missed it. If you didn't mention it, I can certainly understand how the queen's death brought out some extra emotions and remembrances. I belatedly offer my condolences.
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2 years ago