I LOUNGED to start off my morning before heading out for something to eat. Of course, I had to pack up all of my things but not load them onto a bike. I checked out, checked my bike and went looking for a cafe for a galao and croissant and just across the square from the guest house was the tiniest of places that had the right look to it. Old style.
They only took cash, which is common for tiny places because of the bite that credit cards take out of their profits. When I asked for a croissant, she gave me two because they seemed a bit small. As soon as I had ordered my second galao the sky that had been darkening let loose a torrent of rain and along with very strong winds, it was very nasty out there. Leaves were blowing off of the trees and people were dashing for cover. Once I finished, I asked if I could wait a bit for the rain to subside and they said of course.
I peeked out and saw a few blue patches, the sky got brighter and then the rain slowed right down. But I could see more threatening clouds in the distance. Though I took a circuitous route, including over to the marina, I decided to head toward the train station so I wouldn't get caught in another torrent of rain. Despite the rain moments ago, there were a number of people about, though with umbrellas on the ready. I'm not sure how they would do in these winds, though.
It took no time to get to the train station. There were people waiting for various trains but plenty of bench space, so I sat down and did some online reading. Some was very disturbing so I veered away from 'that' topic and onto fluffier things.
My train came a few minutes from departure time, and quite a few people disembarked, with a smaller share to replace them. I was easily able to get a seat then looked out the windows at groves of olives, oranges, figs and other things I didn't recognnize. Sometimes there were glimpses of the sea. One stop was in Fuseta where our neighbours have spent parts of their winters to escape the snowbanks of Cochrane. There were no snowbanks here so I could appreciate why they enjoyed Fuseta!
There was a little delay as we waited for another train to come into the station, and then away we went. I arrived in Tavira to a cloudy sky with dark clouds, but no falling rain. I hoisted my fairly heavy panniers' strap onto my shoulder and started to make my way to my guest house - about 850 m away. I would have been soaked if it had been raining.
I liked the look of the town. The train left and crossed a big stone arched bridge. There were people about but not crowded like the past few towns I'd been in. As I came down toward the water I could see nice buildings along the water's edge, and then there a few hundred metres away was an arched stone bridge across the river (12th and 17th century). Beautiful.
I was in such awe of the bridge that I wasn't paying attention to my GPS so when I did, I realized I was slightly past my guest house. I stepped back about two metres and there it was, with it doors facing the river. I was buzzed right in and the reception checked me in (early) and I had my cute green room - pretty much the green colour we had initially painted Alex's room in our old house. I love this colour.
Now unencumbered by my bags, I headed out and up to the old town and its castles, churches and gardens. Again, there were people about but it was a much more subdued feeling. I would have to say that this part of the Algarve (and supposedly further east as well toward the Spanish border) has a calmer feeling to it. It doesn't have the dramatic sliffs and sea views of further west, but it's kept its soul. I got busy capturing APs all about before the rain started to sprinkle down. Then a bit harder. I started back toward my guest house and once I was inside it was pouring rain in buckets. I decided to remain in my room for a while so had my customary nap.
Starting to get a bit hungry, I headed out around 630 pm to 'O Noel' restaurant which is rated as one of the best traditional Portuguese restaurants. It was across the arched bridge and a few blocks away so it was nice to see more of this beautiful town. Again, people about, but not too many, and most seemed local. There were lots of restaurants about, though, so I think it might get a lot busier here in the summer months.
Initially I was the sole customer but soon more hungry (locals) came to the restaurant. I ordered mixed salad, Portuguese pork and vinho tinto but it was so much I couldn't finish it all. Partly because it was a lot and partly because I was not using up as many calories today compared to the past weeks.
The walk back was beautiful. Because of the earlier rain, the building lights were sparkling in the water. Along the river, the bridgees were lit up as were the castle and churches on the top of the hill. All of these were refelected in the river. I just had to take more APs (artsy photos). Rain started again so I quickened my pace and got back to the guest house ony slightly damp.
Not my photo, but wanted to post it for fairly obvious reasons. This was captured by a Canadian photographer north of Toronto. The eagle flew off after twenty minutes - without the hero. 🇨🇦
Today's ride: 10 km (6 miles) Total: 543 km (337 miles)
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Jon AylingLove Tavira. Ridiculously it's the only place in Portugal we've ever spent the night, coming in from Spain and flying back out at Faro. A really atmospheric place - quite a few visitors in high summer, as it's also got a great beach, but not overwhelmingly so. Fond memories of sitting in that very garden in the early evening listening to some locals playing the Fado - they weren't even busking, just playing for the fun of it. Must return and do the place justice some day. Reply to this comment 3 weeks ago
3 weeks ago