June 3, 2019
Breakdown
Washburn to Kimball
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Jackie’s speed: 8.8 mph
Scott’s speed: 10.5 mph
Weather: 50-60 degrees, mostly cloudy, northeast breeze 10 mph
The day was overcast and cool at 08:15 when we got on our bikes after consuming the last of the blueberries, yoghurt, granola, and donut holes. The pre-pack the night before gave us an edge on an early start, which we consumed with a moseying pace. We checked out some of Washburn’s older homes (Scott’s a big fan of prairie style architecture) but the mansion built by the architect who had built the bank had been torn down. A disappointment.
We were back on Highway 2 after our Lake Superior sojurn on state highway 13. We were headed into Ashland, 10 miles east, where we wanted to pick up some more fuel for our camp stove. The outdoor store was supposed to be on our left, but before we saw it, we took a spur to a paved bike path on the left side of the highway close to the shore of Lake Superior. We saw an underpass that led to restrooms, but we didn’t take it because we planned to use the facilities at the outdoor store, one stop.
Except we never saw the outdoor store. In a couple miles, the bike trail was closed for construction. So, we went back up to the street level and checked our app again to see where it was. Three miles west, we had overshot it when we took the bike path. The restroom was a mile behind us, but since we had no way of knowing when we’d see another, we went back to it. It’s not easy to take stealth comfort breaks on Wisconsin highways. Way too many cars.
We took note of a historic marker for a famous son of Ashland, Fleet Admiral William D. Leahy, whom FDR appointed as his chief of staff from 1942 until FDR died in February 1945. Leahy was one of FDR’s most trusted advisors during the Inter-Allied Conferences at Yalta, Teheran, and advised Truman at Potsdam. In his own memoirs, Leahy writes he advised Truman against using atomic weapons, believing “the use of this barbarous weapon at Hiroshima and Nagasaki was of no material assistance in our war against Japan because “the Japanese were already defeated and ready to surrender.” He died in 1959 and was buried at Arlington National Cemetery.
At 10:45 we were once again on track, having made 10 miles in two and a half hours. Twelve miles later, we were on the bench in front of the IGA on the Bad River Indian Reservation, enjoying Cracked Pepper & Olive Oil Triscuits with delicious Wisconsin pepper jack cheese. Twenty-two miles down, 28 to go.
The prevailing incline in elevation combined with northeast winds slowed us down somewhat. Traffic on Highway 2, only two lanes since Washburn, was pretty steady, though we were thankful the speed limit was only 55 mph. The ample six-foot wide shoulder shrank to three feet after the Bad River reservation. So we opted for another ATV alt-route about 15 miles east of Ironwood, Michigan, which was our goal for the day. Although we went a little slower as we slipped over loose rock and soil, the peace and quiet away from highway noise was worth it with open fields and farmsteads.
A couple weeks ago, our son Julian asked us why we had not mentioned any mechanical problems. Well, because we had had none, not even a flat tire. Seven miles west of Ironwood, the Pinion transmission on Scott’s Tout Terrain bike failed. Most touring bicycles have derailleur systems consisting of two or three sprockets in front connected by a chain to five or more gears on the rear wheel axle, commonly referred to as a 'cassette'. The rider changes gears by using small (easy) or larger (harder) sprockets in front and finer gradations in the cassettes in the back. A Pinion transmission consists of a metal housing enclosing gears and cogs with pedals sticking out on either side. An ultra-strong carbon belt loops the exterior gear in front to the exterior gear in back. No oily chain, no derailleur, just 18 unique gears to click through.
Scott’s left pedal stopped engaging the gears, it just spun around. He pushed the bike safely off the road and performed some diagnostics to rule out something basic and simple, like a cable disconnected. No, something had caused the gears on one pedal to strip out.
We were across the road from a farmhouse with a “Private Property – Keep Out” sign posted near the driveway. Scott felt like this emergency overruled property concerns, so he rang the doorbell. A woman in her 70’s answered, looked us over and decided to trust us. Scott asked if it was possible to get a ride to town so we could get the bike fixed; he offered to compensate them for their gas and assistance. She said it was her duty as a good Christian to help us out of a jam, no need for reimbursement. She called to her husband, John, who looked like he had been snoozing in the easy chair. He came out and listened to the problem and request. He told us to wait while he got his pickup.
In less than five minutes, we had piled the bikes and panniers into the back and were again on the road to Ironwood, jammed together in the front seat. None of the seatbelts worked, so the driver pulled the strap across his shoulder and held it with his right hand, in case a highway patrolman saw him. (I get the feeling he didn’t drive this truck to town very often). Scott wanted to know about the logs we had seen on the trucks all day. Primarily firewood? The logs looked too small for lumber. But John said the birch, oak, and maple were millable and were intended for furniture. We rode through Ironwood to the east side where the bicycle shop was. John dropped us at the Classic Motor Inn across the street and a block down. He, too, refused any reimbursement, so we hope we expressed our gratitude sufficiently.
Porsche-trained engineers in Germany developed the Pinion transmission, and it comes with an appropriately robust warranty – five year replacement. Scott has had the bike for three years, so whatever failed should be covered. He called the U.S. Pinion office, which happened to be in Denver, Colorado. The guy said he would send a replacement transmission via overnight service on Tuesday, with estimated delivery sometime Wednesday. Next big concern is how to deal with that seven mile gap of unpedaled route.
We closed out the day with an expedition to the outdoor sports door for the camping gas, then had some rehydrated chicken teriyaki for dinner. The local PBS station had a pledge drive going and in between requests for donations aired a program on “Story Songs.” We watched old videos of hits by Tennessee Ernie Ford, Jimmie Dean, Bobby Gentry, Glen Campbell, Jim Croce, Gordon Lightfoot (guess which ballad?), and Don McLean. Lights out at 22:00, a new record for us.
Today's ride: 47 miles (76 km)
Total: 1,306 miles (2,102 km)
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