Day 9 and 10: Contrasts

June 25, 2023 to June 26, 2023

Leg Day

I didn’t get to journal on Sunday, so this is going to cover both Sunday and Monday:

Contrasts

Sunday:

This morning we left the Omak Inn at 7:15, our earlier departure to date, after Mike gorged himself on biscuits and gravy, and I tried to consume the large container of yogurt purchased the night before…just what we needed to get us through the miles and climbing. Our route took us through scenic areas once again. We rode through the Okanagan Valley with its orchards and then departed orchards for high plains that reminded me of riding in the Eastern Sierra on Highway 395.

The landscapes were filled with contrasts as we ascended and descended passes; the sage brush and orchards turned into pines and aspens. Once we started to descend the Waconda pass, the landscape was greener, more forested - seems like there have been fewer fires on this side, and there were marshes. I enjoyed listening to the bird calls as we rode by.

The town of Tonasket was a highlight; we ate next to the local co op in a tiny little park, and then went to check out the Business Center/Tourist Center location that offers camping for bike tourists. It looked pretty comfortable: grass, tables, bathroom, and water. It is on the main road, but the noise could be easily fixed with earplugs. Currently, we are camping with bike tourists also making their way east, and who had camped there last night and said it was very pleasant.

I thought we might start to run into tourists now that we are officially on the American Cycling Association’s Northern Tier Route. We met them this evening in the town of Republic at the fair grounds. The Ferry County Fairgrounds offers camping. It has a shelter for eating and free showers if you don’t mind a cold one, or $1.75 if you like it hot.

We have been sharing stories, chatting about routes, and comparing places to camp, which has been a nice addition to our trip. I am trying to convince them and Mike to go to the Kettle Falls National Recreational Area tomorrow, but I am not sure if I have any takers; I guess it doesn’t sound overly appealingly with its possible lack of potable water and no amenities; this means we must make sure we have enough food for a day and the ride to the next store. It would be nice to see these people again, but an adventure to a beautiful location is appealing too. The mileage is getting a little wonky right now meaning it is hard to get the mileage, climbing, and lodging nailed perfectly.

Anyway, it was an uneventful, beautiful day. There was a leg workout, a little sprinkle, no traffic, and fine conversation. Pretty nice!

Monday:

We actually slept in till 6:00 am this morning. It is easy to wake up early and go to bed late because of the long daylight hours. This makes the days go by slowly and helps us to make the miles and enjoy the scenery at the same time. We do not feel the need to rush the day. Stopping for long breaks and chatting with folks we encounter along the way is encouraged.

Along with the usual morning chores to get ready for the road, we were able to chat with the tourists who shared camp with us last night. We were not sure if we would see them again, but we saw them along the major climb of the day, Sherman Pass on Scenic Highway 20. This was my kind of pass; it was scenic and forested; another contrast from yesterday. It amazes me how quickly the landscape can change from one side of the pass to the other.

At the top of the pass, we had a quick lunch while listening to the cacophony of thunder and watching the dark clouds surround us. We decided to get going to avoid the typical afternoon thunder storms that shroud the passes each day; once we donned our rain gear for the descent and started down the pass, it began to hail, but this did not impeded our progress and was pretty benign.

The goal for the day was Colville’s fair grounds instead of Kettle Falls Rec Area, and I was at peace with this because it meant some more time with Peter and David from the Davis, California area, two recent teacher retirees, and Hermon and Kristiana, German tourists who are no strangers to touring or the US. This group met somewhere around Concrete, WA, and have been sharing their adventure together. It’s nice that we’re able to join for a short bit too.

So, the fair grounds are the total opposite of where I wanted to camp: serene lake and trees; we are literally camping on Center Stage near a busy road and train tracks. However, the evening was still enjoyable: sharing a meal and chatting. I think we still had a good night’s sleep.

The caretaker of the grounds was super accommodating and doesn’t charge tourists. The showers are free and hot!

All in all, a comfortable day with backroad riding and beautiful views.