September 21, 2024
Gia Sinh
A later start this morning because we only had forty kilometers to cover. After finding a bánh mì stall for first breakfast and then an ATM, it was almost eight o'clock by the time we got going. By this point the morning's predicted rain had started and it would continue in varying intensities for the next few hours.
We had planned a route close to the karst hills on what we thought would be a quiet road. After a bit more than seven kilometers we had two different locals telling us to turn back because the road was flooded, communicating with us using mime. One local warning piques our interest, two usually causes us to act upon the information.
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So back we cycled until we could find a bridge to take us across the river after which we were spat out onto the dreaded QL1A, the Trans-Vietnam Highway. It begins at the Hữu Nghị Quan Border Gate near the China-Vietnam border, runs the length of the country connecting major cities including Hanoi, Da Nang and Ho Chi Minh City, and ends 2301 kilometers later at Năm Căn in Cà Mau province. We've ridden parts ot it before on two earlier tours that went through Việt Nam so we know that it is best avoided, although that is almost impossible at times. It's only saving grace is that it has a wide shoulder for it's entire length.
After about twenty two kilometers we turned off onto a quiet road that would lead us towards Gia Sinh, north-west of Ninh Bình. The rain had stopped and it started to get hotter. Both yesterday and today we have had such flat rides that it is only the heat and humidity that have been the limiting factors.
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We are spending the next two nights at the Ninh Binh Family Homestay. The name is a bit misleading because it is really a mini resort with individual bungalows and a lovely swimming pool, all set in a wooded rural environment. We might have to extend our stay because dreadful weather has been forecast for the next two days. As I type up this journal we are a few hours into one helluva storm with violent lightning and thunder. The rain is bucketing down and shows no sign of letting up.
Today's ride: 47 km (29 miles)
Total: 138 km (86 miles)
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