Braving the streets of Hà Nội

September 15, 2024

It was only eight kilometers but at least we were on the bikes today, feeling our way through Hà Nội's notoriously busy streets. But just as all kilometers aren't the same length, not all busy streets are the same.

Hà Nội's streets, as do most in South east Asia and many other middle income countries, are controlled less by rules than by common sense. The traffic seems to flow based on the acceptance that all road users should be allowed to get to their destination with minimum fuss rather than being dictated by each individual road user's "right of way". This works best where two wheeled traffic outnumbers larger vehicles and this is the case here.

We quickly got the hang of things and made our way up the mausoleum of Hồ Chí Minh. Sternly but politely directed by the numerous security officials we left the bikes in a secure parking area and joined the long queue to view his remains.

The enormous building that protects the remains of a great man in a little body.

No photos allowed, as usual, so I have nothing to show. I wish we could have paused longer at his final resting place instead of shuffling slowly along in the human centipede because it was a strangely moving experience.

Afterwards we spent a couple of hours in the immediate vicinity which contains, amongst others, the houses of parliament, the presidential palace and the area where Hồ Chí Minh lived from 1954 until his death in 1969. There is also a rather large and somewhat disappointing "museum" to Hồ Chí Minh. I use quotes because it is less museum than an enormous display of trumpet blowing, a bit like Georgia's museum to Stalin but on a far grander scale.

The presidential palace. Hồ Chí Minh never lived there.

From 1959 until his death he lived in a simple traditional wooden house nearby.

Near Hồ Chí Minh's little house is a Buddhist temple with a small pagoda in a pond next to it.

The temple is quite ornate inside. The vast majority of Vietnam's citizens supposedly have no religious beliefs. Those that do are mostly Catholics followed by Buddhists but the total of the two is barely over ten percent of the population. So the extent of the votive offerings is surprising.

On our tour of Asia last year I questioned a Georgian priest about the many icons on the churches showing saints holding their hand in this position. His reply was that it was a sign of the Trinity. The Buddha lived about five hundred years before Christ and is also often depicted with a halo (as is his mother).

In the afternoon we went off to watch the water puppet show in a theater near the lake. It was a surprisingly entertaining hour enjoyed in a child like way on one hand but marveling at the technique of the puppeteers, who do most of the work from under water, and the quality of the musical accompaniment.

Tomorrow is our last full day in Hà Nôi and there is much that we have yet to see.

Today's ride: 8 km (5 miles)
Total: 8 km (5 miles)

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Andrea BrownHà Nôi was our first experience with "blood stream" bicycling, where we just tried to flow along and trust that everybody else would too. It becomes oddly relaxing and zen while simultaneously in a very alert state. We'll definitely be following this journal!
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1 month ago

Jean-Marc StrydomThat's a good description of what it feels like.
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1 month ago