Ravioli Surprise Tour

April 7, 2022 to April 23, 2022

Wroclaw – Opole – Gliwice – Oswiecim – Krakow (all Poland) – Trstena – Zilina – Trencin – Trnava – Bratislava (all Slovakia)

750km

Since Covid had lost its deadly sting and travel had become more predictable again, we decided to reintroduce surprise trips. It was Kurt’s turn to plan and Darina’s wish was to go camping. In theory, April weather would suit.

As Easter drew closer, Kurt’s clues were ravioli and north. Now, ravioli exists in countless forms with different names and fillings all over Europe, and even Malta would be big enough to include a north side. But then again, all our recent trips led us to Southern Europe, so north could actually mean north!

Poland

Simple Train, a Swiss company specialized in international train travel organised the tickets that brought us via Munich and Berlin in Germany to Wroclaw in Poland. Even though the weather didn’t encourage camping, Darina’s admission that Wroclaw was on her to-do list cheered Kurt up no end. As a by the way, it was also mentioned in one of the virtual tour trips where Darina prepared pierogi (Polish ravioli) as a clue for Kurt.

Wroclav became part of Poland after WWII when the whole county shifted west and a lot of people from the former Polish city of Lwiv moved in. This would partially explain the numerous Ukrainian flags in town, although they were prevalent all over the country. Poland is extremely supportive of the Ukraine, not only because of a common enemy.

Most of the old town was reconstructed in style after the war. It has the second biggest medieval market square (after Krakow), but what tickled our fancy were the hundreds of dwarf sculptures all over town, commemorating the anti-Soviet movement that brought down the communist regime in the 1980s.

Another quirky reference to the past is the fact that everyday at dusk and dawn the street gas lamps around the cathedral are lit and extinguished by one of three official human gas lighters.

Cycling out of town was no problem as the cycle lanes were plentiful and well organised, and the landscape was very flat, leaving a lot of visual space for the everchanging sky.

We did cycle through a part of the coal mining and steelwork area, and like the German counterpart in the Ruhrgebiet, it is all spruced up, very green and there was no soot in the air.

Oswiecim, better known as Auschwitz, is a place that touches everyone’s heart. To see the atrocities mankind is capable of is simply horrifying. The piles and piles of shoes alone that were worn by the victims gives a minute idea of the scale this disturbing genocide. A visit to Auschwitz is a sobering sombre affair that everyone should experience to learn about the lives of thousands who didn’t live happily ever after.

Krakow was well worth a rest day. Actually, the old town and the Jewish quarter could keep you busy for a few days. And we can highly recommend the Boutique Aparthotel, not least because of the warm welcome and excellent hospitality supplied by Mohammed. Shukran Mohammed!

After touring this beautiful town on foot in the warmest day of the trip, the heavens opened, and the temperatures dropped. Easter weekend was going to be a washout. We left a freshly washed old town on excellent bike lanes and purpose-built bridges in the direction of the Tatra Mountains.

Not only was it a washout, but every shop, kiosk and restaurant in the vicinity were closed. Easter in Poland is apparently as “big” as Christmas. We climbed in a rain cloud with rumbling tummies hoping for more luck on the Slovakian side of the border. Firemen sporting golden helmets paraded in and out of crowded churches, where they stood to attention on the alter as the Passion of Christ was read. Then on the crucifixion cue they fainted dramatically just like the soldiers did in Calvary some 2,000 years ago. Of course, we can understand the shop assistants and chefs that don’t want to miss out on a bit of a resurrection. 😉

Short before the border, we finally got food at a petrol pump and left Poland happy. As the Spanish would say: Barriga llena, corazón contento! Full stomach, happy heart!

Slovakia

We did hope for a bit of scenery, after all we were in the Tatra Mountain region. Alas, it was restricted to glimpses of snowy mountains with all the higher peaks in clouds. So, we concentrated on traditional villages and castles. And one definitely worth a visit is Orava Castle, close to Dolny Kubin. Controlling the Orava valley from its perch, it has a fine collection of exhibits including a calf with two heads.

We can’t recommend taking the main road to Strecno. There’s far too much traffic on a road that’s too narrow to deal with it. Add a snowstorm and Easter Monday traffic and it’s really not a cycling paradise anymore! There is an alternative north of it that would be the better option.

From Strecno, we had excellent bike routes and quiet roads along the Vah River/Canal. Towns like Zilina, Trencin, Piestany and Travna were delightful stations and Bratislava had its own charms too.

April is a gamble in this neck of the woods. We didn’t camp once and had to wear our raingear almost every day. However, we did have a good time, met very friendly people, enjoyed the local cuisine (not only Ravioli 😉) and Kurt was very happy with the available brews.

Hearty dishes served in hungry-cyclist portion sizes are the order of the day. There are all sorts of ravioli or dumplings and soups, while meat, beetroot and cabbage were common dominators across the board. A typical Polish saying goes: Eat, drink and loosen your belt! This would also work in Slovakia!

Bicycle infrastructure is fabulous, and drivers are respectful and patient, especially in Poland. If you have plans to visit, perhaps do so a bit later in the year. And be sure to check out the delicious northern ravioli: Pierogi!

If you're a friend of moving pictures, here is our YouTube video

and for more , here is the update on our website

Have fun

Kurt & Darina

Today's ride: 750 km (466 miles)
Total: 750 km (466 miles)

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