February 19, 2023
Day 4: Casablanca to Azemmour
"Courage" "Bravo" "Bon Voyage"
“We are friends,” says the porter shaking Rachel’s hand and then touching his heart. Rachel is not used to being addressed by men in a Muslim country; she is usually ignored while the men talk with Patrick. He helps us load our bikes, and takes our picture. Then he wants his picture taken with Patrick and the Bikes.
| Heart | 8 | Comment | 0 | Link |
As we expected traffic is light on a Sunday morning. We follow the main road along the coast, pass by the big mosque again and stop for some photos. An Italian tourist takes a picture with our camera. There are lots of joggers and bicyclists out this morning, riding along the boulevard.
“Is it too early for an egg McMuffin,” Rachel asks as we near the outskirts of Casablanca and there is a McDonald’s. “I’m up for it,” Patrick says. This morning, the hotel buffet is busy with a big tour group. But then we are up an hour earlier than the previous 2 days. We opted not to have the omelet and stayed with the pastries, coffee and OJ. Our stomachs are still adjusting and there is plenty of time that we will transition to the local cuisine.
From passing cyclists we hear shouts of “Courage” “Bravo” “Bon Voyage” accompanied by enthusiastic waving and thumbs up. Patrick says that in France “Courage” is what is said to cyclists it means courage, but also strength.
At one roundabout, a group of cyclists going in the opposite direction shouts “a gauche”. Stopping to check the tablet, the road straight ahead where we were headed is a dead end. So we turn left and find the road we want to be on. People are so helpful.
Another time a cyclist rides along with Patrick and talks. “Take, take,” he says to Rachel as he passes and then sets off faster than us. He gives each of us a tangerine.
The ride isn’t particularly exciting, the coastal road unlike most coastal roads have “flat” hills instead of rolling hills. There are lots of huge modern looking condo developments, most seem either still under construction, or bought as investment / vacation properties. In between local farmers still grow their crops and tend sheep and cows. The traffic is very considerate. We see lots of “coffee shops” in the back of cars. We took a break at a local shop, buying a big bottle of lemonade. The owner brought out two glasses for us to use when he saw us swig out of the bottle. The distance is further than we anticipated but we make it to town by about 0230.
About halfway today we see a bikepacker coming toward us headed north. We stop and he turns around to chat. Chris is from the Czech Republic. He tells us of where he had stayed in Azemmour, a hotel for 120 dirham ($12US) “near the Poste and a Hotel sign).
| Heart | 5 | Comment | 0 | Link |
When we cross the Oum Er Rbia river (Mother of Spring River)
from route 320 and enter the town we first pass the Medina and the road curves around to a main street. We ride the length of this busy market street looking for the hotel. Patrick stops and asks a man who ends up being a Riad owner in the Medina. A Riad is a traditional house with a courtyard and typically luxurious and expensive. They first talk in French then switching to German. Nice that Patrick speaks different languages, stronger in German. We turn around heading back the busy street and stop again asking another man. The first man joins in again. They don’t seem to know of a “cheap” or middle class hotel, their advice is to keep going to El Jadida, or go into the Medina for a Riad. As we get back to the T junction, Patrick spots the Hotel sign Chris told us about. There is a narrow corridor besides a café and a stair up. The café owner shows the room. Small, two single beds and a squat toilet with shower across the hallway. For 120 dirhams we take it. Later when walking to the Medina we see the Poste to the right of the junction. We are fortunate that we met Chris and that we knew there was a Hotel here in the city.
| Heart | 2 | Comment | 0 | Link |
| Heart | 2 | Comment | 0 | Link |
| Heart | 3 | Comment | 0 | Link |
We rest a bit then head out to explore the Medina. The Medina is the old part of town surrounded by a wall with canons on the ramparts. There are several gates leading into narrow alleys. No cars make it inside here. You can forget about finding your way, all you can do is just head in and wander until you come out on the other end. A guy comes up to us and says we need to see the Portuguese fort. He knocks on a door until someone opens. Merci! We wander around the fort and climb several stone stairs to get a nice view over the city and river. The narrow alleys of the Medina are very picturesque. Colorful, lots of nice gates and see-through. Cats are everywhere. They don’t seem to be anyone’s pet, but are being taken care of by the community. In return they probably keep the rodent population under control. There are no other tourists. More women are wearing traditional Muslim dress, we hear the Call to Prayer.
| Heart | 3 | Comment | 2 | Link |
1 year ago
| Heart | 6 | Comment | 0 | Link |
When we make it out of the Medina we find a nice restaurant and have dinner. A nice dish of chicken brochette with vegetables and fries is 35 dirham, about $4. Since our budget room does not come with breakfast, we pick up some yoghurt for the morning and head back to the room to rest our legs.
Today's ride: 85 km (53 miles)
Total: 85 km (53 miles)
| Rate this entry's writing | Heart | 17 |
| Comment on this entry | Comment | 2 |