Manduria loop

November 15, 2024

We woke up to beautiful sunshine this morning for our loop ride to the Ionian Sea on the west coast of this part of Italy. The route direction was reversed at the last minute so our navigation was a little off so we rode 53km instead of 45km. No matter it ended at a wine tasting venue so we were happy. The day started by riding to the sea, through a nature reserve where we saw large flamingos and one of the many small forts that dot this region. We then rode back to Manduria for an amazing wine tour unlike anything I have done before. The building was a winery in the past but now it is a museum and a wine tasting venue for Manduria wines. To be called a Manduria Primitivo it has to come from this region with grapes grown by only 18 different vineyards.

We had an amazing dinner tonight and again we were the only ones in the restaurant, private chef.

These are large flamingos found in this part of Europe. They are a different species from the one we see in NA.

Our first glance of the Ionian Sea and it was sunny and lovely this morning.

One of many fortresses around this part of Italy. This one is Torre Colimena built in the 1500s to ward off invasion by the Turks. There are a series of these forts all around this part of Italy.

This is for Patti who I know would have wanted to climb an olive tree. Sadly this tree is dying like many others in the region. They have been hit by a bacteria that kills the trees. You see many new olive groves where new trees are being replanted to restore the olive industry

This is the winery that we visited in Manduria. The sparkling roséis made from Primitivo grapes and is very tasty. It is light on the bubbles and alcohol content compared to its full bodied red counterparts (12 vs 15%). The name Primitivo comes from the early I king of the grapes since the harvest here is mid-August.

These concrete cellars were once the wine cellars. The hole in the ceiling is where they poured the grapes and then the wine fermented. There are at least a dozen of these big concrete rooms that they filled with grapes. Once fermented the wine was pumped out and barrelled and sold. Some poor slob had to go into the cellar and clean it out so it was ready for next year. People died doing this job because of the CO2. Now the rooms are opened to each other as a museum.

Some of the locals coming for their “vin de table”, love the 4L plastic bottles.

You a find good white wine here even though it is predominantly red country.

The menu for tonight. Tim and I each took one choice and shared.

Eggplant, cheese and black olives in a pumpkin sauce

Veal meat balls with ham inside and cheese on the edge

Veal cheeks a broccoli. The veal was texture was much like pot roast

Poached pear over chocolate and saffron ice cream

Today's ride: 53 km (33 miles)
Total: 331 km (206 miles)

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Gail JohnsonI would love to get a taste of those delicious desserts! And oh wow, pity the poor people that had to clean out those rooms - nasty job!
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