April 1, 2019 - Odeceixe to Zambujeira do Mar
Searching for carne de porco Alentejana
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Rosa dos Ventos, Zambujeira do Mar, €45 incl breakfast
Though the overnight forecast had been calling for clear skies, I awoke in the night to thunder, lightning and pouring rain. For fun I looked online where it said it was partly clouds with no rain in the forecast. What the..?
However, when I woke up just after 7 am there were wisps of cloud in the sky, but lots of blue sky, too. The sun had not yet risen, but it was looking pretty nice out there, so I was excited to get on the road.
I was down to the restaurant shortly after 8 am where breakfast included a fresh blueberry smoothie, an excellent omelette, a whole orange, and bread that had been delivered to the hotel a few minutes after I sat down so it was still warm. With a bit of butter on it I was in food heaven!
The hostess, her husband, and their employee were all there preparing food, or doing this or that, though at the moment I was the only one eating. One German fellow I had seen last night came in shortly before I finished eating.
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I packed the rest of my things in the room before heading down to load the bike and roll away. Today was to be a short day on the bike, so I had decided to veer away from EV 1 to see some of the beaches. First off was to set course for Azenha do Mar.
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The first bit was on a paved road upon which were a few vehicles, but I soon turned off to a rough-ish paved road that wound its way through field after field after field of half-circle greenhouses. I am not sure what they were growing. Strawberries? They went on forever until I was just out of Azenha. It was a teeny tiny little village but what a spectacular view of the sea. High cliffs with rocks all around and the waves pommelling and crashing against them. I went down to a lookout that was well worth the steep climb where I had to push the bike to leave. Praia do Carvalhal was another descent and climb to and from another spectacular beach. Next, I set course for Zambujeira and the road sometimes led me to spectacular beaches, or kept along the flatland through more greenhouses or fields. For the most part, the remainder of the route was on packed sand roads with the odd vehicle. It is not often that I have been able to tour with such little concern for road traffic. I am going to cycle these designated cycle route more often and avoid the busier roads with crazy traffic.
It was a bit after 11 am when I arrived just above Zambujeira - with views down to the surf crashing on the beach, high cliffs, and whitewashed buildings along the top of the cliffs.
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This would be my home for the night. All the way down to beach level, then back up the other side into town, I stopped for photos here, photo there. Truly an artsy photo mecca.
The GPS quickly led me to the edge of town where I found my really nice casa. The room is small, but there is a beautiful inner courtyard with the rooms all opening into it. The hostess let me store my bike in the hallway adjacent to my room, so it is safe and sound once again. She has suggested there is another nice beach just north of town so once I have had lunch, I will head out that way.
I remembered in 1982 having an amazing Portuguese hamburger in Lisbon. So, for lunch I went to the Rita cafe and ordered a hamburger. Plain white bread, a frozen hamburger patty and frozen fries. At least the people were pleasant and the beer was fine. Enough said. Afterwards I checked TA to find they were rated the 16th of 19 restaurants in town.
After lunch I headed out along the cliff tops for pictures of the spectacular views. I sat and listened to the surf until the steady rhythm started to put me to sleep so I actually had to return to my room for a wee nap. But, this was not before hearing from home that our 17-year-old daughter is giving grief again. My stress crept up a bit, but I finally dismissed the thoughts and dozed off.
I still had not seen the Praia da Nossa Senhora Beach which the hostess had suggested, so I looked on the map to figure out how to get there - it seemed it was about a ten to fifteen minute walk. Part of the way was where I had been earlier this afternoon, but then the way veered off of the wooden boardwalk through the sand between the beach cacti (?) and flowers. It was really beautiful and smelled so fresh and nice. I was now following the Rota Vicente, a walking trail through southwestern Portugal. Then there it was wayyyy down below me. Crashing surf onto sand, stones and huge rocks sticking out of the water and beach. The cliffs themselves were really interesting and were obvious indication of the ground heaving and moving over the millenia. The cliffs looked like black layers of phylo (sp?) pastry, with the rock undulating way up, and back down again. Going down to the beach was a long staircase, in places made of stone, in others made of wood. Part way down I counted 104 steps, so there must have been a total of about 150 steps.
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On the beach the pounding surf was deafening but beautiful as the sun sparkled on the water. I must have sat there for almost an hour just mesmerized by the wave action. Its power and its beauty.
Once again, I am fairly full from my lunch, so am not sure how much I will have for dinner tonight. I just returned to my place and as I approached there was a couple, Jody and John from Wisconsin, who asked me if I knew if anyone was inside to ask about a room. We were just trying to figure things out when a woman came along to open up and let them select a room. They just got in to Lisbon today, are heading out for dinner, and I am sure will be done for the day when they return.
On a disturbing note, the weather forecast is now showing more rain starting on Friday and lasting til Tuesday... with lots of rain. I'll cross my fingers for the skies to keep things under control and wait til night to let loose.
Today's ride: 20 km (12 miles)
Total: 175 km (109 miles)
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